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Routes in Superball Tower

Superball Tower T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0 PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Drake Buckingham
Page Views: 1,366 total, 25/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Jun 3, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

follow the bolt line. we aided up the first 3 bolts then went free to the top at 5.9. the route will probably go all free. SUPER well protected. this route is dedicated to all the average joes out there. very doable.

Location

from the rim, rap or scramble in to the notch. the route starts in the notch on the downriver side of the tower. rap the route and scramble or jug back to the rim.

Protection

6 quickdraws (one with 24 inch runner), aiders or a stick clip. optional jumars if your jugging back to the rim.
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
was back up there yesterday 7/6/13. even with the warm weather, it was excellent. route gets great morning shade. left town at 8, four of us topped out, and we were still back in town by noon. charlie and john both hiked it in their flip flops. my third time on the route. i love this thing. Jul 7, 2013
Paul and I made it up there today. We added a pin and made the anchor really nice (All together there is a total of 6 pieces of fixed gear). The summit rock is super sugary.

It looks like there were some attempts to free the route since the first ascent....and those attempts will now be a little harder. After the nice edge between the second and third bolt there used to be a really nice knob to grab, well after my fat butt stood on it for about 20 seconds it decided it needed to break off and is no more. It does not add a lot of difficulty, but anyone trying to lead this thing will find it headier than it already is.

I was not able to free it, but was able to French free through the whole tower. I would still recommend bringing at least a 2 foot runner to stand in for clipping the 3rd bolt. Aiders are not mandatory but would be helpful unless you have wings.
All in all a fun route and an amazing view. Jun 10, 2013