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Routes in Liberty Cap

Beauty And the Beast T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cool Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Jeopardy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
F/S T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Within T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irish Pride S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kokopelli T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leprechaun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberty Cap Tower T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Never Cry Wolf T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
On Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Osiris T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2-
St. Patrick's Day Massacre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steppin' On it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stonehenge T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 PG13
Whirling Dervish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 474 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul S on Jun 2, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Liberty Cap Tower is the squat tower that contains many of the routes in the area at its base. It's not the most aesthetic of towers, but the view from the top is actually pretty top notch.

For the 1st pitch there are several options, the easiest is to climb Steppin' On It, but continue past its anchor into the chimney and offwidth above. This will bring you to a ledge with junipers you can use to anchor off of. Alternatively, you could take several other cracks up to the big obvious ledge that Steppin' On It leads to.

Traverse to the left on the ledge until you are at the right-facing dihedral with a little roof and set a belay for the 2nd pitch. A short section of aid, which could go free with some strenuous liebacking, to some slightly dirty wide climbing that eventually slabs out to the top.

Location

The route climbs the NE aspect of the tower.

To get down, look to the left once you are on top of the tower for a ramp that leads down. There's a rap anchor at the bottom of the little ramp. A 60m or so rap gets you to the ground. We used 70m ropes on the rap and had a bit extra, so I'm assuming 60m ropes will work, but it might be pretty close!!

Protection

A double rack from #0.5-3 Camalots (plus an extra #3 for Steppin' On It) and a single set from #4-6 Camalots. Try to save 2 #1s for the anchor on top of p2, there's probably other sizes you could use up there, but the #1s are in good rock and fit perfectly.

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