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> Kookmeyers
The Links Effect
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Kookmeyers
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Links Effect, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleeping boy catches no fish (direct) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Cliff Ellery, Rachael Mayne, Jess and Brian Mercer |
| Page Views: | 895 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Cameron Fraser on Jun 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | Cameron Fraser, Liz |
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Access Issue: CLOSED UNTILL FURTHER NOTICE
Details
The entire Castle Rock Coromandel area has been closed for rock climbing until further notice. Hopefully access will be restored in the future. Please post here if you have any updates on access.
Description
Fantastic multi pitch sport route with exposure that makes you think you are in the Arapiles.
Pitch 1 (18) - 50m
A fantastic slab line alternatively know as "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish" that is well worth climbing in its own right. Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted around the hard moves, but can get a little spaced on easier ground. Top out at a large ledge with bushes for a relaxed belay.
Pitch 2 (18) - 35m
A stunning traverse, probably the best pitch of the route. Clip a couple of bolts as you move away from the belay, then boldly drop over the edge into a super exposed corner with 50m of air below you. Relish the exposure and make your way up the rising traverse. Keep on the rising traverse for 5 bolts until the roof finishes. Don't follow random lines of bolts or you may end up on a 21 or 24 with hideous rope drag, and worse still some of these lines are not finished yet and go nowhere! The moral of the story is not to just blindly follow the bolts. After the roof ends, head up through some sloper covered bulges and a few more bolts to the next belay. Beware if you fall off on the rising traverse (leading or seconding) you may end up hanging in empty space unable to get back on the wall. I advise you take a couple of prussicks or equivalent ascending tools to get back on the wall.
Pitch 3 (18) -15m
From the belay head straight up the short face, following the bolts to the summit. Directional holds will expose any gym climbers. Solid for the grade.
From the summit, soak in the view then walk off down the track (to your right from the top belay).
Pitch 1 (18) - 50m
A fantastic slab line alternatively know as "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish" that is well worth climbing in its own right. Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted around the hard moves, but can get a little spaced on easier ground. Top out at a large ledge with bushes for a relaxed belay.
Pitch 2 (18) - 35m
A stunning traverse, probably the best pitch of the route. Clip a couple of bolts as you move away from the belay, then boldly drop over the edge into a super exposed corner with 50m of air below you. Relish the exposure and make your way up the rising traverse. Keep on the rising traverse for 5 bolts until the roof finishes. Don't follow random lines of bolts or you may end up on a 21 or 24 with hideous rope drag, and worse still some of these lines are not finished yet and go nowhere! The moral of the story is not to just blindly follow the bolts. After the roof ends, head up through some sloper covered bulges and a few more bolts to the next belay. Beware if you fall off on the rising traverse (leading or seconding) you may end up hanging in empty space unable to get back on the wall. I advise you take a couple of prussicks or equivalent ascending tools to get back on the wall.
Pitch 3 (18) -15m
From the belay head straight up the short face, following the bolts to the summit. Directional holds will expose any gym climbers. Solid for the grade.
From the summit, soak in the view then walk off down the track (to your right from the top belay).
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