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la violencia

5.13a/b, Sport, 60 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 6 votes
FA: unknow to me
International > North America > Mexico > Northern Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Salto > Tecolote Cave

Description

This route starts with big throws to good jugs probably 12a. At the thrity foot mark the jugs disappear and you are at the crux. There are two ways to do the crux one is a huge double dyno to a stalactite hanging off the wall. This move is very big and aggressive once you catch the dyno the crux is holding the swing. ( its a violent move hence the name)The other way to do the crux involves a v7 crimp boulder problem involving drop knees and horrible crimps and pinches on a very steep section of wall to get to the stalactite. If you dyno the route is 13a doing the crimp beta is 13b. This grade was confirmed by Spanish sport climber Dani Andrada, A casual on sight for him. After the crux you get a no hands rest sitting on the stalactite. Finish on sequential steep pumpy 12a jug climbing to a tricky move at the anchor. This is a great route but can be quite brutal if you try the dyno, my buddy got pretty destroyed smacking the stalactite numerous times.

Location

The route is located in the tecalote cave on the left side.

Protection

well bolted fixed draws, check for condition of draws as they have been up for a while.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

at the sit down rest on the send
[Hide Photo] at the sit down rest on the send
Mike nailing the dynamic move on La Violencia.
[Hide Photo] Mike nailing the dynamic move on La Violencia.
Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way
[Hide Photo] Dani Andrada onsighting la violencia the 13b way