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Routes in 4 - Superfly Sector

100 Degrees of Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Betamorphosis S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broken Biscuit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Entertain with Ease S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Superfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: FA: Alex Kirkpatrick EQP: Vince Bates, Luis Cisneros
Page Views: 564 total, 10/month
Shared By: Alex Kirkpatrick on May 31, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

I was lucky enough to steal this FA out from under the two grey-beards who bolted and cleaned it a few years ago (Vince Bates, Luis Cisneros). Wrestle choss (rock is way better than it looks and actually very clean) through some super fun moves out the low roof to a sizable ledge. Load your guns and bring the ruckus through a powerfest boulder problem culminating in some wild dynamic moves. Keep it together and pretend you're in Spain as you surf another 50 feet of bullet limestone through technical feature climbing. This one is a real treat and one of the best hard routes at the dry due to its crazy exposure and phenomenal rock.

Location

Second Route right of Superfly just before turning the corner to the Bee Cave.

Protection

Bolts *70m rope necessary

Photos

A critical hold broke off the crux of this route making the boulder problem significantly harder, hence the grade change. Jan 8, 2014
Thanks man! I cant take any credit for the name. That was all Vince and Luis. I'm just jealous because my baby beard is blonde and splotchy Jun 4, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Well done and great route name... But Luis a grey beard??? Hahaha! Jun 1, 2013