Type: Trad, Sport, 2600 ft (788 m), 23 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Leland Windham and Steve Martin - Aug 2003
Page Views: 31,837 total · 331/month
Shared By: 20 kN on May 31, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Infinite Bliss is a super fun 23-pitch bolted route in a beautiful setting. While it was quite controversial when first established and there was talk of chopping the line, it has become an enjoyable line that appears is here to stay.

This route is not a sport climb. It is a bolt-protected slab climb, and it is extremely long which means you need to be quick and efficient. In fact, it's quite possible it's the longest bolted climb in the USA and Canada and the second longest in North America. There are sections where runouts can top 100 feet with little to no options for trad gear. However, any move harder than 5.6 is well protected, and the crux pitches are fully-bolted sport pitches.

The "parking lot" and approach is at N47.54604, W121.52151, Elevation: 1174'. Simply copy and paste the GPS coordinates, excluding the elevation, into Google Maps and it will tell you how to get there. From the parking lot, the approach is about 45 minutes long and is mostly uphill through switchbacks in the forest. While the trail was not explicitly marked when I climbed the route, it is worn enough that if you are hiking more than a few minutes and it does not look like you are on a trail, you are off route.

Pitches 1 - 7: These pitches involves easy, low-angle, somewhat runout climbing on solid slab. The rock can be a bit water-polished. Be careful if there are parties above you because if they knock rock down the rock will blast right through the first six pitches at triple digit speeds. Numerous bent hangers on these pitches are obvious indicators of the rock fall hazard. If you are confident simulclimbing 5.8, the first six pitches are the place to do it.

Pitches 8 - 12: The rock starts to steepen here, but the pitches become more closely bolted as the moves get harder.

Pitches 13 - 18: Mostly easy climbing. The most runout section is in here. Be very careful not to knock loose rock down on climbers below as the rock quality in this section is fair in some areas. Dont feel bad if you dont find the bolts on P15 as I missed both of them. P16 and 17 have no pro aside from the belay station. The climbing is very easy, but the rock quality is fair and the rock tends to be slightly polished, so be careful.

Pitches 19 - 23: These are the hardest pitches, but they are mostly sport-bolted pitches. Both of the 5.10 pitches are well bolted.

For more info, Google Infinite Bliss. Summit Post has a nice write-up on the route. You can find a topo here: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

WARNING: Rock fall is a serious concern here. Wear a helmet, and once you pass pitch six, be extremely careful not to knock loose rock down on other climbers. The entire route follows a gully slab, and if you knock rock down it will have nowhere to go but right along the route the entire way.

Some current (2016) discussion of this route is here:
mountainproject.com/v/infin…

The GPS coordinates of the "parking lot" are:

N47.54604
W121.52151
Elevation: 1174'

Protection

Seventeen quickdraws or 30 if you plan to simulclimb. Bring 2' trad draws as you will get a bunch of drag using only sport climbing draws. You do need two 60m ropes. A 70m or 80m is not long enough. I did not see many worthwhile trad placements when I climbed it as the route is mostly slab. If you really want to bring trad gear, bring a set of nuts, but don’t plan to do much with them.

Video

A "Go-pro" style of video for an ascent is here:

youtu.be/pi27YLr01V8

Photos