Type: Trad, Sport, 2600 ft, 23 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 23,428 total · 347/month
Shared By: 20 kN on May 31, 2013 with updates from Vikram Sahney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Infinite Bliss is a super fun 23-pitch bolted route in a beautiful setting. While it was quite controversial when first established and there was talk of chopping the line, it has become an enjoyable line that appears is here to stay.

This route is not a sport climb. It is a bolt-protected slab climb, and it is extremely long which means you need to be quick and efficient. In fact, it's quite possible it's the longest bolted climb in the USA and Canada and the second longest in North America. There are sections where runouts can top 100 feet with little to no options for trad gear. However, any move harder than 5.6 is well protected, and the crux pitches are fully-bolted sport pitches.

The "parking lot" and approach is at N47.54604, W121.52151, Elevation: 1174'. Simply copy and paste the GPS coordinates, excluding the elevation, into Google Maps and it will tell you how to get there. From the parking lot, the approach is about 45 minutes long and is mostly uphill through switchbacks in the forest. While the trail was not explicitly marked when I climbed the route, it is worn enough that if you are hiking more than a few minutes and it does not look like you are on a trail, you are off route.

Pitches 1 - 7: These pitches involves easy, low-angle, somewhat runout climbing on solid slab. The rock can be a bit water-polished. Be careful if there are parties above you because if they knock rock down the rock will blast right through the first six pitches at triple digit speeds. Numerous bent hangers on these pitches are obvious indicators of the rock fall hazard. If you are confident simulclimbing 5.8, the first six pitches are the place to do it.

Pitches 8 - 12: The rock starts to steepen here, but the pitches become more closely bolted as the moves get harder.

Pitches 13 - 18: Mostly easy climbing. The most runout section is in here. Be very careful not to knock loose rock down on climbers below as the rock quality in this section is fair in some areas. Dont feel bad if you dont find the bolts on P15 as I missed both of them. P16 and 17 have no pro aside from the belay station. The climbing is very easy, but the rock quality is fair and the rock tends to be slightly polished, so be careful.

Pitches 19 - 23: These are the hardest pitches, but they are mostly sport-bolted pitches. Both of the 5.10 pitches are well bolted.

For more info, Google Infinite Bliss. Summit Post has a nice write-up on the route. You can find a topo here: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

WARNING: Rock fall is a serious concern here. Wear a helmet, and once you pass pitch six, be extremely careful not to knock loose rock down on other climbers. The entire route follows a gully slab, and if you knock rock down it will have nowhere to go but right along the route the entire way.

Some current (2016) discussion of this route is here:

The GPS coordinates of the "parking lot" are:

Elevation: 1174'


Seventeen quickdraws or 30 if you plan to simulclimb. Bring 2' trad draws as you will get a bunch of drag using only sport climbing draws. You do need two 60m ropes. A 70m or 80m is not long enough. I did not see many worthwhile trad placements when I climbed it as the route is mostly slab. If you really want to bring trad gear, bring a set of nuts, but don’t plan to do much with them.


A "Go-pro" style of video for an ascent is here:

Jon H
Jon H   MD/DC
Got on this last summer. Bailed at the top of P13 because we ran out of water (it was 90 degrees) and the rental car was due back at 5PM. Would love to get back and send this thing properly.

The crux for us (besides running out of water) was the approach. Leave ample time to find the start of the route. Jun 24, 2013
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
We had no trouble finding the route. We made it to the base in 45 min. The trail is pretty beat in. If it wasn't for those 5.0 pitches half way up this would be such a great route. The chossiness of those pitches really bring it down. Took us 14 hours car to car. Jul 21, 2013
Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.10c PG13
Could someone indicate why this route is 'R' rated? Is it because of the extremely run-out low fifth class pitches? Jul 23, 2013
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
It is "R" rated because you literally climb 200 feet without a bolt over super chossy although easy terrain. Every move harder than 5.7 is well protected. Jul 24, 2013
20 kN

20 kN    
GPS coordinates for the "parking lot."

Elevation: 1174' Dec 24, 2013
Dan Birman
Berlin, DE
Dan Birman   Berlin, DE
Like many other people we got lost in the chossy section. The intermediate anchor is directly above the first bush WITH slings (80'). It isn't visible from any direction until you're about 15 feet away. From the anchor below the choss to the intermediate is > 200'. Jun 8, 2014
Olympia, WA
Chris-Bailey   Olympia, WA
Looking for information on the road closure:


Do you now, if so desired, could you hike (yeah 12 mile approach) or bike in? Has anyone been in there to investigate, see if access is still possible during the week (I'm one of those Sat-Mon work week kind of people?

Chris Jul 11, 2014
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
Did this yesterday. I'm going to give the current conditions of the road, which will likely stay relevant through the next year of construction, and then some general comments.

The MF road is currently closed at the CCC trail trailhead, about 2.6 miles before the Taylor creek bridge. The closure meant that we biked in from the current closure point. The road is currently perfectly bikeable, but the planned roadwork over the coming weeks may interfere. We stashed bikes where the trail branches from the road. Parked car at 6:45am, climbing by 8:30am (including a bathroom break at the campground en route).

We thought we were being super clever by biking in and getting on this when the road is closed. Yesterday, Sunday, was actually our second attempt of the weekend after heading up there Saturday. On Saturday we got on the route at 8:30am (same approach times), only to find one party had slept at the base, who in turn thought they were super clever but another party had in fact slept at the top of P7. On Sunday we were alone on the route.

On Saturday the joke was on the top party, because when we reached the P10 anchors at around 10:30am, a series of massive thunderstorms started, with dime-size hail. We started bailing, as did the party that had slept at the base of the route (we had caught up to them at P10). Another storm bubbled up an hour later while descending. When we reached the base of the route we could see the top party was rapping around P14. On the bike ride out, another storm hit. Know that when a downpour comes through, the majority of the pitches turn into waterfalls, and much of the climbing is friction climbing, making it basically a game over.

Climbing this route with parties above/below is extremely unnerving. On Saturday we saw several golfball-to-softball sized shrapnel pieces come down, and on Sunday we couldn't avoid causing the same, especially over the P15-17 chossfest, both ascending and descending. These pitches are very different from other alpine choss I've climbed: it's a low angle continuous slab, with no blockiness or ledges to halt a major fall, and every hold is suspect, for at least these 400 feet.

Why there's no anchor other than the bush between the current P16 and P15 stations is beyond me, it's currently basically impossible to ascend or descend the route without unroping or "simuling with a death pact" -- no gear between. It's very psychologically taxing to climb these two pitches, both on the way up and down, and honestly felt like the crux of the route. Dealing with the double ropes on the chossy low angle rap was a lot of work at a very tired state.

The climbing is not that hard, and all the hard pitches, rated 10b, 10c, 10a, are tightly bolted enough that pulling on draws can easily get you up at a 5.9 A0 grade. Our ascent of the 10c pitch was definitely a case of reverting to 5.9 A0 after so much climbing. This route would be 4-stars if it wasn't for the P15-17 choss. The climbing on the rest of the route is fantastic!

The times I remember where: 5:45am leave Seattle, 6:45am park at CCC trailhead, 8:30am climb, 10:15am at top of P8, 7pm top out, 7:30pm start raps, 12:30am off route, 2:30am back at car, 3:30am home in Seattle. Basically a 16hr climb. We would have been faster overall if we weren't tired from the Saturday attempt through P10. We were also very slow through the P15-17, in both directions. It would be faster to simply unrope for the ascent/descent of the choss, and acknowledge that that's the level of sketch-commitment you have to be OK with to do this route. What made us want to do the approach twice in a weekend I still don't know, but hey, psych was high!

A monumental route, but because of the choss section I don't see myself ever doing it again. Aug 4, 2014
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
RIP Ross Halverson, who died on this route on 9/9/14. Sep 19, 2014
20 kN

20 kN    
what happened? Oct 9, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
The accident somehow involved rapping off the end of the rope, but the details are not clear. Oct 29, 2014

What is the best period to attempt this route. It looks like I will be in the area in mid-june, is it too early ?

Cheers, Feb 16, 2015
20 kN

20 kN    
No mid June is not too early. It might be rather hot then actually. Apr 26, 2015
Andrew Carlson
Idaho falls, Idaho
Andrew Carlson   Idaho falls, Idaho
I'm living in Tacoma from now until the end of May. Is this route possible between now and then?? Thanks Mar 14, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Some errata for the pitch lengths in the (otherwise excellent) CascadeClimbers topo:

Pitches 2 and 3 add up to 250' - rapping them with 2x70 left us 20' short (easy but exposed down-scramble).

In general, the route appears slightly longer than the indicated 2600'. My GPS (barometric altimeter) indicated 2550' elevation change on rappel, so, given the ~45 degree angle of at least 40% of the route, and some zig-zag here and there, I'd estimate the route to be between 2800' and 3000'.

We were, however, able to combine the following rappels just fine with 2x70: 23+22, 20+19, 12+11, 5+4. The 23+22 looked like it would *almost* go with 2x60 (didn't pay attention to how much rope remained on the other ones). Jul 31, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Route starts 47.549,-121.5137. The trail has at least 3 branches:
- a flat horizontal traverse (good trail) that takes you to the slab too early (too low)
- an up-and-down traverse (also good trail) that takes you to the route
- a branch that continues uphill much higher than the start of the route
So turn left to get to the route, but take the 2nd left rather than the 1st one. If you have a GPS, longitude 121.5137 is your target (the main trail in the forest goes mostly east-west, the traverses to the slab go north-south). Elevation gain from the road to the start of the route is right about 1000 feet. Jul 31, 2016
Topo: dropbox.com/s/24bfwtmil7ovo… Aug 1, 2016
In regards to getting in. Is the road closed during the week?
I see it was due to be closed for July, is that still the case?

If it is closed how far can one drive in before walking is necessary?Any over night camp spots? Is water about for camping or should i walk that in also.

Heading up Thursday to climb Friday, if we can get in!!!

Cheers. Aug 8, 2016
Nate Fearer
Gig Harbor, WA
Nate Fearer   Gig Harbor, WA
I attempted this with a buddy on June 4, 2016 and thought it was a great route! I couldn't tell you about anything higher than pitch 15 because we turned back (it was in the mid to upper 80s and the river below looked too inviting in our dehydration), but I loved it all the same.

Be aware that mosquitos will follow you up the rock for quite a way if you're climbing in June, or any hot month.

Don't bivy at the base for a quick start. The road is nearby and your car is more comfortable. It's only a 45 minute approach anyways, so just wake up earlier, and avoid doing what I've done.

Bring lots of water, obviously. Oct 19, 2016
Mud Crud
Fall City, Wa
Mud Crud   Fall City, Wa
Fun route, The chimney pitch can seep so having an addition large cams can be helpful.

Route was in good shape on 3 Oct 2017. Oct 4, 2017
Yes, depending upon the size of the stick. Apr 2, 2018
So what is the deal with the 16th pitch/section of 5.0 with no bolts? Was an intermediate rap station added, or are folks still rapping off of the bush? Jun 19, 2018