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Routes in 2: Three Sisters' Wall

Arbre’d and Dangerous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bricks are Heavy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brothers in Arms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cinq à sept T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'incognito S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La salope S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smell the Magic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sortie coté jardin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uberhang S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on May 30, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

The left most line on that wall. Climb the slab and the corner up to a ledge and exit straight up. A bit exposed, but less so now due to recent upgrades by Éric Paquet in 2012.
#4 in photo

Protection

bolts to anchor

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10 PG13
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10 PG13
This route unenjoyably and unnecessarily goes to the top of the cliff. You can't see from below but there is a fixed anchor at the top of the cliff set back a few meters. The climbing on the arete is very enjoyable but is very short-lived. The rest of the route is effectively a long hike for a short slide and is of a much less enjoyable nature compared to the majority of other routes at the cliff.

This route is tagged on the first bolt that warns the route is 5.11a R with ledge-fall potential.

I think it does North East R-rated climbs a dis-justice to consider this route R. Yes, there is a ledge fall potential but a good, attentive belayer should be able to keep you off the ledge if you peel getting to the stance to clip the next bolt. If you don't feel confident you can climb this route, you probably shouldn't get on it. If you feel confident at the grade, have a head you can trust to stay calm, and trust your belayer don't let the R-rating scare you off. Jul 20, 2014