Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Eddie Phay
Page Views: 397 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on May 29, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

A nice short mainly solid(for Seward Highway) sport route at lower Pivot Point. The business of the route is making powerful left trending moves up underclings/pockets and pinches. The crux starts just as the hands reach the 1st bolt and continue until just below the 3rd bolt.

Note: Even though this route appears solid, it is still on the Highway and susceptible to freeze and thaw breakage. As a note the grade became more solid after I pulled a 15 pound (was an undercling pinch) block off just before the 3rd bolt.

Location

Located on the right side of lower pivot. The 3 bolt line in the middle of the short overhanging bulge.

Protection

Rope and Draws

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.13b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.13b
6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, .13b is probably correct.

I cleaned the route from 3rd bolt to anchor and most of the holds were under lichen and a lot of moss/debris fall. Having done this route every couple of years, yet not since 2012, as the last time, it has definitely seen no traffic to the anchor....and the holds cleaned were pretty necessary to gain the now severely rusted anchors.

I will retro the anchor and bolts if those are deemed questionable soon. Stay tuned for updates :) Jun 10, 2016