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Routes in Lower Pivot Point

All For Naught T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burnt Tree Traverse V6 7A
Crankcase Traverse 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Crybaby T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dangle & Whack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dave's Toe Jam TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V5 6C
Grunt Maker TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
HU S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V7 7A+
Linear Equation TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Naught For All S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Off Ramp TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pivot Point T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Project 5.14? S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Sat Nam S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Trickster T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waltzy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Eddie Phay
Page Views: 356 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on May 29, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

A nice short mainly solid(for Seward Highway) sport route at lower Pivot Point. The business of the route is making powerful left trending moves up underclings/pockets and pinches. The crux starts just as the hands reach the 1st bolt and continue until just below the 3rd bolt.

Note: Even though this route appears solid, it is still on the Highway and susceptible to freeze and thaw breakage. As a note the grade became more solid after I pulled a 15 pound (was an undercling pinch) block off just before the 3rd bolt.

Location

Located on the right side of lower pivot. The 3 bolt line in the middle of the short overhanging bulge.

Protection

Rope and Draws

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, .13b is probably correct.

I cleaned the route from 3rd bolt to anchor and most of the holds were under lichen and a lot of moss/debris fall. Having done this route every couple of years, yet not since 2012, as the last time, it has definitely seen no traffic to the anchor....and the holds cleaned were pretty necessary to gain the now severely rusted anchors.

I will retro the anchor and bolts if those are deemed questionable soon. Stay tuned for updates :) Jun 10, 2016