Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Joe Brooks |
Page Views: | 2,111 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Andrew Hunzicker on May 29, 2013 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Really fun route for the grade, with almost no painful holds or super hard moves. Working this route you get to repeatedly do the lower Aggro Monkey crux which results in finally learning the correct beta and actual enjoyment of the lower roof.
From there, you get a great rest and then up and right for about 20 feet of really fun climbing (11 plus/12a) with ending with a really fun big move to latch the "basketball" hold with your right. The "basketball" has a great curved lip for both hands and you clip here and try to get a quick shake before the crux.
The crux is grabbing poor left hand, setting feet on two bad holds and dyno for a big four finger pocket that is very soft, but hard to hold. If you latch the hold, do the "jump on your kitchen counter top move" to get your left foot on basketball, then balance up and match on a really slipperly sloper. You are standing on a huge foothold so just hold on very gently and gingerly step up to good foot and quick pop to good holds. Clip and very fun big moves/big holds to anchor.
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