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Routes in The Ranch Hand

Biscuits 'n' Gravy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Corn Bread T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Lasso The Longhorn T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Marmot Man T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Stricker, Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin
Page Views: 444 total, 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Nesting Closures Details
Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is a good route that climbs better than it looks from below. Originally, this was done as a 70m pitch. The first pitch is the better of the pitches by a bit.

P1. Ascend the second from the right of the steep dihedrals. From the ground, this appears to be a groove, but closer up it is a subtle, right-facing dihedral. A couple bulgy sections require good stemming to make it moderate. Above the dihedral, the climbing eases, but the protection options fade. Belay at a ledge near a boulder-like knob, 5.8 PG-13, 150'.

P2. Continue upward on grittier lower-angle face to the top. It is a bit runout, but the difficulty is low, 5.4 PG-13, 150'.

Walk off northward, and downclimb a ramp system (4th class) on the right. Hike down the forested slopes back to the base. Apparently, there are some old bolts somewhere up there, too.

Location

This is on the right side of The Ranch Hand. It starts off 60 feet left on a ledge above a low-angled slab where you hop a big dead log onto the ledge. Currently, it appears to be the 3rd from the right of the routes here.

Protection

A rack to a #3 Camalot works.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
We originally did this route in 1 pitch to near the top with a 70m rope. Jul 30, 2013