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Routes in Bombardier Dome

Carpe Diem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Da Vinci's Robot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daddy Can Climb V1 5
Goal Post Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Seven Time Loser T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Veritas TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Volo S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Matt Clark, Susan Bonfiglio
Page Views: 690 total, 13/month
Shared By: Furthermore on May 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures Details

Description

Climb a crack on the southwest side of the dome. Chickenheads and other features lead to a wide crack with a slight overhang. Pulling through the crack is dirty and the crux. Once through the dirty crack, climb past a tree to a hand crack (second easier crux) and belay on gear. A large, detached boulder at the top provides a good anchor.

Descend by scrambling down the north side of the dome.

Protection

Larger cams.

Photos

First Track Jack
Colorado
First Track Jack   Colorado
I think we did the Already Been Climbed route today about 20 ft climber's left of Arrow pic for Seven Time Loser. Stemming start with good pro high up but hard to find, seems 5.8/5,8 + for crux move, and then nice climbing after steep crux. Completed in one pitch with 70 m rope. Walk off after 2/3 rd class ascent to summit and walk off to west back to gear. Aug 28, 2015
Matt Juth
Evergreen
 
Matt Juth   Evergreen
 
Some nuts and small cams are nice for pro when not in the main crack. I agree with others that climbing the crack straight-on was in the 5.8 range, and I also felt a few moves up high were 8ish as well. It's a bit dirty in the crack, but I had a good time. May 29, 2015
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
For the first 20 feet or so of face climbing, the pro is there. It's not super obvious, you really have to look for them and fiddle with the right placement. I think I placed three pieces before getting to the first wide crack, so it's certainly not runout. I did wish I didn't leave my microcams on the ground thinking I wouldn't need them on a 5.7. I placed two nuts and a smallish cam on the face if I remembered correctly. Smaller cams like Aliens and Zeros would definitely help in that section. Oct 14, 2014
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8-
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8-
Agreed. The guidebook says go right at the wide crack. Problem is, there is no protection right. So I went up the wide crack instead. Which is indeed a little more stiff than 5.7. The hand-jams are dirty, and yes the pro at the wide crack is tricky (with all the dirt). The small crack above the wide crack is also another tough spot. It kind of fades away. Had to face climb to the right of that to get past that part.

I still thought it was a fun route though! I like the untouched dirty routes though. More of an adventure. Sep 21, 2013
Hiro Kurotsuchi
Colorado
 
Hiro Kurotsuchi   Colorado
 
Wow, this is a loser of a route. Got on it because we were having trouble finding the long routes and then weather was coming in. It's easy climbing, but I felt like I was soloing 20' up. Chickenheads and sparse places to place gear (sometimes marginal placements).

If I were on it again, I would take my tricams again and three 0.5 (purple). If you have a set of C3s, you could also take them up.

For the rating, I agree that climbing that dirty, wide crack is a little stiff for 5.7, and I found it hard to protect - perhaps that's when I wanted the extra 0.5. Jul 12, 2013
Furthermore  
 
According to the guide, it shows the route heading right from the wider crack and back in the main crack at the tree. Climbing directly in the wide crack felt a bit stiff for 5.7. Dirty holds with lichen feet seemed to up the ante. May 28, 2013