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Routes in Main Wall Area

Red Square T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ed Drummond, July 1967
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

The classic of the area, and for good reason. Not only is it good climbing on a stunning line, it benefits from protection. As with most of the crag, the rock quality improves as you gain height. Your belayer should stand to one side to avoid being showered by a constant stream of sand!

The climbing is pretty sustained, with one good rest at half way. A variety of jamming, stemming and laybacking should get you up without too much problem, but stopping to place too much gear may leave you pretty tired by the top. This one's really not over til it's over!

Location

The obvious corner. Well, there's a lot of those. This one has a crack in the back so you can actually place gear. There is a graffiti-d sun on the left wall, which should help to identify it.

Protection

No fixed gear, belay on the large pine tree at the top. The crack takes big nuts at the bottom, and there are bomber placements for medium size hexes. Use cams if you like but they feel quite skittery on the sandy rock, whereas the hexes just drop into awesome constrictions: you could hang a truck off them!

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