PRINT: Rock Climb Strange Ways, Sonora Pass Highway (108)

Strange Ways

5.12b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: unknown
California > Sonora Pass Hig… > Jailhouse Rock

Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing. Details

LOCK THE GATE! Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.

For the current gate code and rules, visit accessfund.org/meet-the-acc…

Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:

No dogs on the property
Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
No loud music
No fires
No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
No littering

In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.

Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.

Description

This neglected route is quite controversial on quality some say it is one of the better 5.12- routes at the crag, others say you would have to pay them to climb it. Chimney and stem up the corner to an obvious roof at the third bolt. Turn this roof on its left side using a couple of neat underclings, and snatch the jugs by the fourth bolt, or choose to grab a non-obvious drilled pocket on the face.. Campus/traverse up and right on good holds but poor feet to a nice rest at the fifth bolt. At this point, you're through the crux, but a long, pumpy sequence of underclings separates you from the anchor. Definitely not over until you clip the chains!

Location

In the grove of trees in the middle of the crag, just left of the hanging sled.

Protection

8 fixed draws to anchors. A stick clip is recommended, as the first bolt is quite high and the climbing may feel insecure at first, depending on you proficiency at trad climbing.

Reclip a few of the top draws on the way down so you aren't skewered by the tree when lowered.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Back in February, exiting the stem box somehow already pumped and getting humbled by 15 year old girls crushing nearby 5.13s and talking about how excited they were to get their licenses.