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Routes in The Legs

Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Full Repertoire, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Questa About It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Baltz, Bruce Doeren, Mark Dalen summer 1978
Page Views: 1,218 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mark Dalen on May 27, 2013
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This 3-pitch moderate is the first route done on the crag. Climbed on an off day while working on Johnny Questa in the summer of 1978, No Questa features fun sections of knobby face & finger to hand-size crack climbing.

P1: Climb a steep dihedral/trough (5.8) then wander up ledges to a shelf of trees.

P2: A short steep hand crack in the left wall (5.9) leads out on the flake. Traverse on handrail & chickenheads then climb cracks & knobs to a groove (5.7) that ends on the broad sloping ledge beneath the final headwall.

P3: Climb straight in finger & hand crack (5.7 or 8), cross the arete & run it out & off right.

Location

Route begins at the toe of the buttress on the east side. The first pitch aims for a horizontal flake visible a hundred or so feet off the ground before heading straight up the arete, finishing with a jamcrack & airy traverse.

Protection

Route was climbed using 50 meter ropes & hexcentrics. No fixed pro, none needed.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
One can traverse in from the right and skip p1, and start with p2 (the steep 5.9 hands that goes to the arete- this is a good feature to pick out- I think if you identify this, the rest of the route-finding will come naturally).

Josh S. and I got as far as roping up for it a few years ago, but decided not to due to weather. (This was before the climb was posted, we didn't know the climb had already been done but should have assumed so. Cool to see what we would have gotten into.) Haven't been back to it. Jun 20, 2016
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
I think you're right Mark. We did it in 3 pitches on the FA. When I did it again with Paul, we broke up the 3rd pitch for photo opportunities and to ease rope drag. I definitely have a slide of someone on the 5.9 LB at the end of P1. Jun 18, 2016
Mark Dalen
Albuquerque, NM
 
Mark Dalen   Albuquerque, NM
 
I could've sworn we did it in 3 pitches as shown in the topo ... you led P1, I know, & I led P2 ... maybe Bruce led P3 as in Paul's notes? ... you definitely led the crack/arete pitch ... it's so hard to remember without photos to back it up ... I just remember it was a lot of fun! Jun 15, 2016
David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
From Horak's diary:
P1: Up cracks to an overhanging handjam (5.8) to a large loose-sounding rock, then hand traverse right then handjam right to a short but beautiful 5.9 lieback corner. [dB: beta does not show route up LB dihedral directly below 1st belay]
P2: Up 5.9 hand crack (5.10 says dB)to a flake on face, up to a belay.
P3: Left on face, then up cracks to a large ledge.
P4: Up crack to arête to top.

Single rope rap to bottom. Pro to 3". Jun 14, 2016