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Routes in Morphine Ledge

Long Reach T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reunion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 37 total, 1/month
Shared By: aus Wayward on May 27, 2013
Admins: Dave Rone

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Top rope ban in effect; DO NOT SLING THE CEDARS. Details

Description

At Morphine are two prominent roofs. Bisecting these two roofs is a book fold. At the base is a yellow '39.' This is your route. Ascend the face. Pull the crux move and continue up to the book fold and step left to the ledge with the large cedar tree. From here you wrap. An alternative is to continue up the roof through the crack, which is 5.10. This is a very well protected route. It is very much a Seneca style 5.7, so expect technical climbing and committing moves.

Protection

Protection: G.

Photos

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aus Wayward  
 
There has been some debate as to the location at which the 5.7 pitch terminates. Some historical information and opinion indicate that you traverse left to the large ledge; some information, to traverse right to the large tree. However, recent climbing activity has the climber traversing right to the large tree. The reason for this appears to be the fact that the tree on the ledge to the left is not safe and further, protection to set up a belay is poor. In contrast, the tree to the right has a wrap station. Aug 12, 2013