Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Squawk

5.9+ PG13, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Dave Goldstein
Colorado > Golden > Golden Gate Can… > Lazy Squaw Spire
Access Issue: State Park - Fee Required. Details

Description

Climb the Squaw's backside, starting at the little notch on the east end and spiraling around the north. Cut hard right just off the notch, and follow fun steps to a ledge below overhangs. Climb very steeply, with good pro, until you can step right onto a good stance below final overhang. Find as much pro as you can, step right again, pull the bulge, and mantel up to the top. If you do it the way we did, you'll finish right at the summit chains.

Protection

Standard rack, extra slings. Small wires are useful at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Squawk diagonals up the steep north face, turning the final overhang on the right.<br>
<br>
Photo by Mark Roth.
[Hide Photo] Squawk diagonals up the steep north face, turning the final overhang on the right. Photo by Mark Roth.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I led out the roof to the lip in 1994, leaving a solid #4 Wild Country Rock and an oval 'biner at my high point and downclimbing to retreat before a storm. I'm glad this route has subsequently been completed, and I always thought it would be a good one. Oct 24, 2015