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Routes in (9) Above the Waves

BA Insanity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cat's Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climax T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Sushi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cunning Linguist T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dangerous Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Doublethink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fillet Show T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gold Member T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Shower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happy Endings T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Let's Do The Trad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love You Long Time TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ocean's Eleven T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Orange Juice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pearl Necklace T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Psycho Killer T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rastafarian Seabirds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake Alley T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tanz en Den Mai S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tofu Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet and Hairy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Stephen Parr, 7/04
Page Views: 43 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on May 27, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A continuation from the anchor above Cunning Linguist and Fillet Show.

The first ascent route takes you straight up the face to a thin crack. Delicate moves on delicate pro take you to a grassy ledge with scrappy rock, and some low-5th up to the ledge.

The "better" variation starts just left of the anchor. Protect carefully here - some of the rock looks suspect. Pull through up to the slopey ledge and a rather intimidating position. Take a deep breath, then grope for holds as you move out right, get some solid pro, and pull up to big holds. The rock here is super sharp and fragile, but the going is easy. Scramble up to the ledge.

This anchor is also for BA Insanity. A single 60m will easily get you down.

Location

Start from the Fillet Show ledge

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

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