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New Beginnings

5.12, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 28 votes
FA: D. Montgomery & J. Young, 3/13
Colorado > South Platte > Staunton State… > Staunton Rocks > The Dungeon
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is probably my favorite route in the Dungeon. The pump is arm-numbing and the features are wild! While the crux is low, I have seen many of strong climbers punt at the last bolt. Manage yer pump!

Boulder past 3 bolts, place good pro, then follow a few more bolts up the overhanging dihedral. When the crack dies, face climb left then climb straight up on jugs. Clip a final bolt, step left into the chimney and finish.

Cleaning Beta:
Don’t try to play chicken with a tree... the tree will most likely win. Tram in cleaning all your gear/draws. When you get to your last piece above bolt 3, clean it but stay trammed in. Have your belayer lower you out depositing you safely on the ground.

Location

This route is the lowest of the steep routes in the Dungeon. It is located just downhill of Soaked in Sin.

Protection

9 bolts, single rack cams from 0.4 - #2.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Past the 3rd bolt and into the trad lands.
[Hide Photo] Past the 3rd bolt and into the trad lands.
Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you really feel the pump.
[Hide Photo] Near the top of New Beginnings, this is where you really feel the pump.
The route.<br>
Updated 4/11/2016
[Hide Photo] The route. Updated 4/11/2016
Mid-crux, at the start of New Beginnings.
[Hide Photo] Mid-crux, at the start of New Beginnings.
Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
[Hide Photo] Just past 2nd bolt on New Beginnings.
At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.
[Hide Photo] At the 2nd bolt of New Beginnings.
In the steep corner.
[Hide Photo] In the steep corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Kinda spicy to lead from the ground, especially getting to the last bolt with some hidden gear right before it. Possible Spoiler Alert, so don't read on if you're going for the super-pür onsight, but I think having some gear beta (or another bolt or two?) will make this a more manageable lead.

Good stopper above bolt three, kinda punchy above bolt four up to where, from the rounded jug up and left, I placed two Metolius #3 (orange) TCUs, bomber #2 Camalot in the base of the steep crack, #1 Camalot above it if you want, fixed nut (seems to be in place for lowering and cleaning) that you can back up with another medium nut at the top of the crack.

Hand-traverse left and make committing 5.11- moves up into the bulges, then bomber Metolius #0 and #1 TCUs in a small hidden horizontal by the initially freaky-looking (but solid) jug block, then up on good holds to the last bolt (pumpy).

Good stuff, but gear is inobvious coming from the ground. Bring your A Game! Jul 7, 2013
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the gear beta, Pinkly. I'll add my own onsight spoilers...

Good red Alien and yellow Alien where Matt got the #3 Metolius, and black and blue Alien where Matt got the #0 and #1 TCUs. A right kneebar pad would get you a no hands rest at a tricky spot. The lead seemed reasonable with this gear, but you don't want to blow it at at least two spots. Stuff was still coming off when I climbed it, but it should be cleaning up....

Fun climbing! Aug 26, 2013
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] This route now has 9 bolts (used to have 5), so don't be scared by the above comments. Some gear is still needed between the 3rd and 4th bolt (large nut or .75 BD) as well as for the steep crack toward the top which takes anything from nuts to a #2. The route is much safer and more enjoyable now. Apr 10, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
5.12b
[Hide Comment] This is a great route! However, I'd like to make a suggestion that would make cleaning it easier and safer. As it is now, once you clean the 4th bolt and the gear below it (above bolt 3), you risk a very large swing into the trees. I was prepared for this as some people warned me and got my feet out in front of me, but I was told that some folks have taken nasty, unexpected swings and gotten a little beaten up. It'd be best if the first fixed draw (bolt 2) was moved to above the first gear placement (bolt 4) to prevent this swing as you lower. The 2nd bolt doesn't really need a fixed draw anyway as they are easy to stick clip (if you're into that kind of thing) and the 1st is best as a directional to keep the rope out of your way.

The other option is to just stay trammed into the rope after cleaning bolt 4 and your gear, and just keep getting lowered. You'll end up pulling a big loop of rope down, since it's still running through the first draws, but you have plenty of rope left.

Thanks for the all the great routes, Dave. Such a great area! Jun 2, 2018