For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sterling Pass

Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: Crayton/Henry
Page Views: 1,603 total · 26/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on May 25, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Edited a bit but see FAists post below for more!
P 1: Long low angle hands/off hands corner with awesome patina edges. Bouldery move to get into the hand crack with small gear then hands, wide hands forever. Anchors above and right on ok ledge. This pitch is awesome!
P2: short pitch, head up to next ledge system and make bouldery move to a bolt. Climb intelligently through awesome Winslow Wallesque edges to chain anchor on comfy ledge. very light rack and handful of slings.
P3: up through obvious crack system through a couple bolts placing you in a fantastic position with great exposure on the arĂȘte, some very cool holds through here. Two bolt anchor. Rap from here or adventure onwards.
P4: head up onto ledge and make sketchy traverse right to a two bolt anchor at the base of a 90 ft hands/big/hands to chimney pitch 5.10(?).
Alt P4: Unrope and bushwhack up and left into choss chimney, grovel up this to flattish ledge and get out the machete and head right o the base of an amazing 5.9 hand crack that takes you to the top of a small tower.

If you've made it through the 4th pitch chances are you will want to climb the last pitch of Moonshiner, 8 bolts and a 1 and #2 Camalot will get you to the summit!!! 5.10+

From the summit rap back to the tower then down Moonshiner with one 70 or down Pocketfull with 2(?)

Location [Suggest Change]

Just around the corner from Counterfeit to the south.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Singles to #1 Camalot, triples to #3, #4? One 70 if you bring some quick links and rings to leave at the first anchor, or 2 60m ropes will get you down.

Photos

Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
So i ran into this route today, it looks totally awesome. Any idea of how hard each pitch is? The first couldnt be more then 8 it seemed. Dec 21, 2013
Dean Hoffman  
 
Hey Micah, p1 is probably in the 5.9 range, p2 probably has a 5.10 move and is fairly short, p3 is in the 5.10 range as well. Definitely a fun route. Jan 16, 2014
Joshua Crayton
Santa Cruz, California
Joshua Crayton   Santa Cruz, California
Hello All,

Wow, how exciting to hear that "Pocket Full of Horses" has been discovered by the community!

I along with my friend Dave Henry put this route up back in 2004. I happened across the crack system after having climbed the single pitch corner directly on the Sterling pass trail; I never intended on putting up a first ascent but when I reached the top of the first pitch it was clear that I had ventured into new territory. Upon returning to place anchor bolts we decided to continue climbing...! The results of which you see today.

The 3rd pitch was the best piece of sharp end climbing I have ever done; not knowing if there would be any potential for placing protection I continued onward to the arete which was magical. The only remaining part of the climb which I left unfinished was sport bolting the arete of the final pitch which from what I am reading appears to have been completed! Of course as you now know there are some very interesting lines on the upper face.

Never having put up a route I did my best to maintain the ethics of John Burcham limiting bolts except where it seemed absolutely necessary. My only regret are the bolts at the top of the second pitch as it is difficult to retrieve your rappel ropes due to significant friction.

The second ascent was with my fried Jeff Mayhew from Tucson who helped me with the ratings as below. Certainly I can appreciate if others feel differently and am not concerned about how difficult it is ultimately published as.

Pitch 1: 5.8 Two bolt anchor with quick links
Pitch 2: 5.9+ or 5.10-; 5.6 if you do not follow bolt straight up but rather go up from ledge at right. Chain anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 or 5.8 Airy and incredible. keep your eyes peeled for the perfect little placements. Gear and two bolts, chain anchors at top.
Pitch 4: 5.8 traverse/bushwhack and up to base of crack.
Pitch 5: 5.11 climb crack system up to ledge at base of perfect fist crack corner, pull over bulge to ledge then up offwidth to top of detached tower.
Pitch 6: 5.10 (as described by Dean Hoffman) to summit. Awesome views of Oak Creek canyon and the peaks; soak it in!!

Safe climbing to all.

I will add a few photos from my archive when I can.

Josh Crayton Apr 29, 2014
Joshua Crayton
Santa Cruz, California
Joshua Crayton   Santa Cruz, California
Here are a few pics of the route. This was from the last time I climbed the route three or four years ago. Hopefully the topo comes through.









Apr 29, 2014
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
fun route! i ended up traversing to the third and fourth pitches of moonshiner from the top of pitch 3. the traverse is a little dirty and funky, but protects well with some horizontal pods (orange metolius and .4). highly recommend this link up, you get some awesome big hands and fists to a chimney Sep 28, 2015
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10 PG13
not that it's hard to find but here are the GPS coordinates:
34.9338,-111.75883 Feb 21, 2016

More About Pocket full of Horses

Printer-Friendly