Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pulpit

Prelude T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,959 total, 35/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on May 23, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Huge buckets and holes start this route up a well protected face. Eventually the buckets stop and a short length of low angle friction lead to a splitter 20ft hand crack.

Protection

Quickdraws and a few cams from 1" - 2" protect the hand crack. Save a 2" cam to back up the one lone anchor bolt.

Photos

ColinR  
A lower bolt has since been added. What the route really needs now is a second bolt for the anchor.
Top roping requires long slings over the edge to prevent rope drag. An easy scramble up/walk off the back. Nov 28, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The route was hand drilled on lead probably some time in the early 80's. Originally that route only had two bolts. The first two bolts and last two bolts were added later.

It was never meant to be a (safe) sport route. Just something to do on a lazy day. If you feel like the route would be better served by adding a bolt lower down, have at it.

Just use some discretion and the right hardware. Nov 5, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Yea, the first bolt is high and getting to it is no easier than the rest of the climb. Then there's a bunch of bolts before you get to the crux which, oddly, comes halfway between a 15-20 foot runout. It doesn't make sense. But then, a lot of routes in pine canyon are like that. Maybe the routes change over time... Nov 4, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
The first 20ft is much easier than the rest of the climb. I don't know why the bolts were placed where they were, but that probably had something to do with it. This route was done a long time ago. I replaced the bolts on it several years ago as they were old crusty Leepers. It's not a sport route. Oct 7, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.7 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7 PG13
The first bolt is 20' up and out of character with the rest of the climb (much better protected), which will scare some beginning climbers off what is essentially a beginners route. The upper part of the climb is awesome! The climb is about 90' high with a walkoff. Oct 6, 2013