Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Ed Leeper and FDC Willard
Page Views: 2,432 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 22, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

In the middle of the crag, climb up the clean right-facing flaring corner, sort of like Battered Sandwich, but facing the other way and a little easier. Initially, a jam crack in a corner, but higher becomes more of a chimney. I've seen some climb the chimney part with their back to the slab, fighting for every inch. It seems faster and easier to do with one's feet on the slab, ones back or hands against the top. The route seems to leave quite an impression on folks, either they love it or they hate it (this might reflect on which side they had their feet).

One can do a variation finish that traverses out onto the slab.

Shares the same start as On the Rebound.

There is a walk-up anchor at the top, about 25' above the old anchor for this route. You can TR from here, doing the fun face moves to the top, or re-direct the rope at the lower anchor. Very easy access.

Location

The large, right-facing corner near the middle of Hag Crag. Very obvious from the pics. 

Protection

Full range of gear, including wide pieces. But one may get by with just pieces to 3", with several in the 2-3" range.

Bolted anchor at the top. If you're doing it with a 60m, don't forget to tie knots in the end of your rope.

History

When I came here around 1980 with Dan Lapeska to do the face crack (On the Rebound), we realized that we'd have to go partway up the corner first. It was full of ferns and moss, but still climbable. Partway up, I found a Leeper z-pin pounded in the crack. Seemed good, so I clipped into it.
Who knows who pounded that pin in, but I suppose they probably continued up to the top.

Photos