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Routes in King's Hand

Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
King's Hand Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King's Hand Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Konichiwa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Moonglue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sic Fun Ramp T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Teabag T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 215 ft, Grade II
FA: Paul Bucher and Roger Hedlund
Page Views: 844 total, 15/month
Shared By: paul bucher on May 22, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

SIC FUN RAMP AKA:THE ACCELERATED CURVE- Climb the obvious ramp up to the roof. pass the roof (crux) utilizing face holds left. 10+ or C1+. continue up the ramp to bomber anchors just before a large boulder (where the rock quality deteriorates). double 70s (MANDATORY) off. we had some rope left on the ground. not sure if double 60s would make it. crazy good rap off over the mouth of the cave. great route. looks easy, a little deceiving; a bit harder than it looks. pretty clean for a new route with good rock quality. the ramp is detached, so it's also an arch.

Location

100+ yards right of kings hand. very obvious ramp and cave. nice little ledge and shade tree at the base of the route. start up the ramp below the roof. one double 70s (MANDATORY) rap to the deck.

Protection

camalots: singles to #2, double or triple #3s, optional #3 1/2s, optional #4s, double or triple #5s, double or triple #6s. runners. a 3 and or 4 big bro would probably be useful. i didn't have them. no stoppers or hexes needed. bomber, power drilled anchors up top with 2 1/2 by 4 3/4 bolts and one 1/2 by 3 3/4.
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
mark and laura-lynn got the second ascent. #3 (and 4) big bros were the ticket. also we think you may make it down with double 60s. they both crushed it. they called it 10+ on the sharp, 10B on the dull or old school (laton kor or chuck pratt) 5.9. Oct 31, 2013