Avg: 2.5 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||Mike Sheridan, Dave Montgomery|
|Page Views:||2,567 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on May 21, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Start up in the cave with some chimney stemming clipping a bolt. Some may find this difficult, but finding the right sequence makes it 5.7. Pull onto the slab and chase 4 more bolts that you can supplement with some gear. At the 5th bolt, the 5.7 variation, The Voodoo That You Do, goes to the right. Continue up and into a shallow crack (crux). Clip 2 more bolts and reach the 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Rappel the route. Consider knots if you are using a 70m rope.