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Routes in Sterling Pass

Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 265 ft, 3 pitches
FA: D. Hoffman, Lee Williams(Ficker)
Page Views: 1,054 total, 19/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on May 21, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

For only being a couple of pitches this route was quite an undertaking and as such is very difficult for us to grade. Please give us a holler if you're heading out to climb it or if you do climb it please let us know what you think! A true test of all styles on mostly good Sandstone!
Pitch One: 5.11+?Start in crumbly corner out big hands roof to squeeze chimney, think reverse birth simulator! Squirm up and clip one bolt before swinging onto the Karma Block (please fight the temptation to place gear in the Karma Block, a bolt protects the move onto it and there is a good seam just above it. It sounds a bit, shall we say "hollow"!) Head up funky twin cracks to small roof. Difficult, steep stem corner with the namesake "Jesus on a Rubber Cross" move, crux protected with two bolts. Easier, but exciting moves to pleasant belay ledge with bolted anchor.

Pitch two: 5.11OW? The Der Ficken pitch. Step into the fantastic chimney and begin moving up using stemming and face holds, protecting in crack inside the chimney. As the crack begins trending left choose your point of departure and leave everything smaller than a new #5 Camalot and begin true chimneying for about 10-15 ft to the OW roof. Pull the roof and begin armbaring, stacking, knee locking and swearing to the anchors! Another pleasant belay ledge with bolted anchors awaits. As far as grade this felt harder than Serrator (at the Creek) but easier than Bellyful. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Pitch 3: Takes you to the top of the system, however we don't recommend it. We did french free it at about C1, but didn't really have any fun sooo climb it if you like, another set of rap anchors and a huge ledge await or just enjoy the scenery from the top of pitch two and rap with one 60!

Location

Just around the corner from Firecracker up on a nice ledge. Check out the pics so for reference. You can build an anchor for the first pitch with small nuts. Rap the route with one 60m rope

Protection

Pitch One: doubles from around blue metolius to #3 camalot, #3.5 Camalot, #4 Camalot, #5 Camalot, 3 draws and handful of slings. (all old sizes)
Pitch Two: Single set to #2 Camalot for first half, second half I had 2 old #5 Camalots, one new #5, a new #6, and a 6 Friend(would rather have had two #6 Camalots!). Anyhow, we would recommend hauling all the big gear up P1 and leaving everything extra at the belay! Someone stronger could probably do it with less but... I'm not a huge fan of walking gear forever!

Photos

Robbie Brown
Flagstaff, AZ
Robbie Brown   Flagstaff, AZ
Great work Dean! sounds like a burlfest May 22, 2013