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Routes in The Black Sea

A Turtle to Far S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Sea T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead Mans Reach T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Echolocation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gods Bones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incision, The T A2
Jesters of Chaos T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wilman's Walkabout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A3
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Ramier, Micah Faville
Page Views: 1,648 total, 30/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 20, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Two distinctively different pitches of ridiculously fun, airy climbing at the top of the wall.

Location

This two pitch route starts off the left side of the poop deck. A large ledge in the middle of the wall down and right of the the P1 anchors of Black Sea. The ledge can be accessed most easily by rappeling or lowering in from the anchors of Echolocation(11+) or from just about any bolt on that route(<10+). It is also possible to climb half way up Echolocation then move right at the overlap onto P1 of Gods Bones midway up and lower off of bolts there. This allows the second to clean all the gear off of Echolocation before lowering down to the poop deck and pulling the rope for a lead, leaving two of the bolts on Gods Bones hung.

  • Hung gear may offend the sensibilities of...some people. For those a third option exists. Admiral Harrington, his Jolly Boys and the Code of the Sea(11-) combines the first half of Echolocation and sails on past to anchor below P2 of Gods Bones.

Protection

12-14 draws and runners
braddean Lignoski
Seattle
 
braddean Lignoski   Seattle
 
Remember that you're screwed if you rap off of the poop deck without maintaining a healthy swing. Definitely tie knots in the ends of your rope on that last rappel back to the perverse traverse. Apr 30, 2014
Yup, up and right of Echolocation. Look for the distinct compression arete that angles up and slightly left, pretty awesome thuggery after the previous two techy pitches. First crux comes right after the belay as you move up and right over the bulge with some blind knobs. Second crux is not getting too pumped on the second half of the line after the rest. Awesome route, sure to get more awesome as it gets more ascents! May 24, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Is this the one further right of Echolocation? May 21, 2013