Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Mattson, Josh Zimmerman, John Burchey 1999(?)
Page Views: 2,333 total · 24/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer, Jared LaVacque

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


Towards the left margin of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow buttress that starts in a toe of clean, white rock. The obvious feature to look for is the "V-shaped" cracks in the clean rock. The Jester takes the left branch of the "V" (crux) before climbing more moderate and wandering pitches up the ridge and finally a ton of 3rd class to the summit. Many parties will probably opt to do just the technical portion of the climb (7 pitches) and rappel from fixed anchors/slings.

Climb moderate snow slopes (40 deg) and cross a bergschrund to access the rock. Scramble easy 5th class up to a small ledge with a single 3/8" bolt (rappel equipped). Anchor in here, ditch the snow gear and switch into rock shoes (bring snow gear if continuing to summit). Tackle the left branch of the "V", up a splitter hands-to-fists crack in a left-facing corner to fixed nut anchor (95'). Up and right from here, following obvious weaknesses and utilizing some fixed gear anchors as you wind up the buttress. See Brian’s comment below for more detailed beta.


On the left side of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow rock buttress that starts in clean white rock. Rappel from fixed slings/anchors with a single 60m rope and downclimb where necessary. A second 60M rope could be left at the single-bolt anchor below P1, allowing for a rappel over the bergschrund.


Standard rack to 4". Doubles in 2-3" sizes are helpful for P1. Extra webbing/cord for rappels, maybe some extra leaver nuts.