All Locations > Alaska > Interior Alaska/A… > Denali National Park > Little Switzerland > The Royal Tower
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Mattson, Josh Zimmerman, John Burchey 1999(?)|
|Page Views:||1,236 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on May 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer|
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details
DescriptionTowards the left margin of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow buttress that starts in a toe of clean, white rock. The obvious feature to look for is the "V-shaped" cracks in the clean rock. The Jester takes the left branch of the "V" (crux) before climbing more moderate and wandering pitches up the ridge and finally a ton of 3rd class to the summit. Many parties will probably opt to do just the technical portion of the climb (7 pitches) and rappel from fixed anchors/slings.
Climb moderate snow slopes (40 deg) and cross a bergschrund to access the rock. Scramble easy 5th class up to a small ledge with a single 3/8" bolt (rappel equipped). Anchor in here, ditch the snow gear and switch into rock shoes (bring snow gear if continuing to summit). Tackle the left branch of the "V", up a splitter hands-to-fists crack in a left-facing corner to fixed nut anchor (95'). Up and right from here, following obvious weaknesses and utilizing some fixed gear anchors as you wind up the buttress.