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5.7, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 1.9 from 40 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Phantom Spires > Middle Spire
Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


The usual route follows a crack system up a dihedral. Many variations are possible, with jams, stemming and face moves available. Above the dihedral, step left over a couple of ledges and humps to protect it well, then finger traverse back right to the anchor using a crack under a roof. Alternately, go direct from the end of the dihedral to the anchor.


West side of the Middle Spire. As you hike from the parking lot, it's the big left-facing dihedral just left of Over Easy's detached flake and roof.

Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.

Lower or rap off the anchor.

This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.


Trad pro to 2" or 3", but no knobs or naturals on this one. Two bolt chain anchor at top.

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Some common variations of Cockabooty.
[Hide Photo] Some common variations of Cockabooty.

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[Hide Comment] Fun to do laps up these variations on TR May 21, 2013