Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Bob Van Belle in 1989
Page Views: 3,658 total · 54/month
Shared By: B-Mkll Mackall on May 20, 2013 with updates from bvb
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Start back in the cave on fantastic juggy underclings with decent feet on the wall. Power out of the cave using roof beta to a hard cross move on the small arete feature. Once gaining the seam, traverse left to a very tricky mantle topout for the grade. Thank goodness it isn't highball!

Starting further back in the cave may add a grade.

This is a super classic climb that gives us in Boston a little taste of roof climbing, and is totally uncharacteristic for Hammond Pond and a very worthy tick for being so close to the city. Any visit to the Temple Overhangs or Pusherman Wall should include a stop here.

Boston Rocks Ed. 2 gives this a classically sandbagged 5.10/V1 rating.

Location

From the left end of Pusherman Wall, walk roughly north for about 100 yards. The cave is very obvious, especially when foliage is thin.

Walk off the back.

Protection

Pad under the lip, a spotter is nice for encouragement on the mantle.

Photos

B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
Please be considerate/safe and check whether anyone is in the cave before climbing here. Refuse, etc. give evidence that this is occasionally used as a bedding spot for those less fortunate. May 20, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
There is a very awesome and very hard-looking problem that ascends the arete about 4 feet left of the top-out cobble on this problem. If anyone has any beta on this, I'd love to hear it. Sep 7, 2013
kram941 Bernardo
Woburn, MA
  V3-4
kram941 Bernardo   Woburn, MA
  V3-4
The start is the second set of underclings, deeper in the cave right? The description didn't make it sound like but that seems like it would be the start. Apr 14, 2014
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
There is one set of underclings waaaay deep in the cave, almost to the other wall. I'm pretty sure using these puts it into V4-5 territory. The more natural start is the second set about 6 feet in.

Do what feels best! Follow your heart. Apr 15, 2014
Dan Rudolph
Chicago, IL
Dan Rudolph   Chicago, IL
Just looked at an older video of this problem. It shows a much more positive hold on the small arete right of the cave than what is there now. The hold is now definitely the crux. Maybe this explains the Boston Rocks sandbagging. Jun 11, 2014
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  V3-4
That would explain it. The hold looks either broken (more likely) or chipped. Jun 11, 2014
Derek Jf
Northeast
  V4
Derek Jf   Northeast
  V4
Been to Hammond Pond a handful of times and just today got on this problem - why didn't I try this line sooner. Wildly fun opening moves, finding some beta that resulted in the comfiest, double toe-cam compression out of the cave. Super positive and unique finish, too. CLIMB THIS PROBLEM! Jul 1, 2014
Ryan Malloy
Raleigh, NC
  V4
Ryan Malloy   Raleigh, NC
  V4
Even on the rail farthest from the cave entrance, there are two variations for starting positions: feet towards the back of the cave (making the rail an undercling), or feet towards the entrance (making the rail a sloper). Both are fun, and add a bit of variety to the roof section. Aug 12, 2014
Graham O.  
 
Awesome climb, bundles of fun. It has a deceptively hard top out, too.... Classic! Jul 16, 2016
Nick Cavallo
Massachusetts
  V4
Nick Cavallo   Massachusetts
  V4
One of the best climbs at Hammond Pond. Nov 25, 2017