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Feeding The Rat

5.8+, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 5 votes
FA: Deb Thompson
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Prestige Worldwide Wall
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Description

This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.

There are 2 possible starts. The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged. The right start is noticeably easier. Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system. Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.

Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.

Location

This is left of Seams Thin and goes up to a double crack finish. It is just left of the offwidth of One Rat Too Many.

Protection

We used a funky combo of an okay #4 BD wire at the top of the climb with a long (10') directional off a #1 Camalot and yellow Alien under a boulder to the left and a bomberang type threaded sling under a large boulder after topping out One Rat Too Many.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The key hold on the left start.
[Hide Photo] The key hold on the left start.
A possible anchor area to climber's right.
[Hide Photo] A possible anchor area to climber's right.
Deb in the upper crux.
[Hide Photo] Deb in the upper crux.
The route with a rope over the left start.
[Hide Photo] The route with a rope over the left start.
Deb on the left start.
[Hide Photo] Deb on the left start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] I thought this was interesting, but I doubt the cliff will ever be popular, so a bolt anchor is not really needed. If this were somewhere like High Wire, it would likely become popular but not here. Sep 20, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Did this route a second time. A lead would be very serious. My top rope anchor was to the right of the top out and consisted of two long slings and a #1 Camalot. The crux is definitely near the top. Dec 4, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] Hmm...got a top rope, who needs courage? Dec 4, 2016