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Routes in Chaos Boulders

Quantum Mechanics V7- 7A+
Shrimp Traveler V6 7A
Slot, The V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Cole Allen
Page Views: 2,188 total · 38/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 19, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Private property concerns. Tread consciously and be polite. Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This great problem starts low on the right, and traverses up left through a series of varied holds and complicated moves, on good rock. Start seated with your hands somehow using the blocky hold, and perhaps a sloper. Work straight up to the big pinch with a great thumb-catch, and cut left, working through a horn-feature, a cool undercling, a ergonomically friendly crimp, and big flakes to the left. Top out by rocking around the corner on the high left side using the good flakes and rounded feet.
Interestingly, Quantum Mechanics was first climbed with very different beta. The start was on the low center crimp, and it powered up to the right. On the FA, the undercling was not used. This beta is much more difficult (i.e.: was given double digit v-grade) than what is commonly used now. I've posted what 3 locals told me it goes at, but the grade is still settling. The direct start, from the low center crimp, going straight up into the undercling, has not been completed.

Location

5 minutes uphill and right from The Slot. Part of the hike is exposed, and wraps around a buttress with a large drop to the right.

Protection

Several pads and one spotter, or a couple pads and an unusually motivated spotter.

Photos

gabriel cisneros  
  V6+
Quantum Mechanics at the 3:19 minute mark:

vimeo.com/80119934 Dec 4, 2013