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Pucker Up

5.13a, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
FA: Mike Head
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 4 - Windy Point… > Gallery

Description

This is the middle of three routes on the wall, all of which climb a beautiful red overhanging face. I thought the climbing was pretty thuggish when compared to some of the more technical face climbs in the surrounding cliffs - big moves between fair holds with some Mt. Lemmon micros thrown in for good measure. There is good climbing the whole way.

Protection

12 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coach Jon hamming it up for the camera at the mid point rest prior to the crux.
[Hide Photo] Coach Jon hamming it up for the camera at the mid point rest prior to the crux.
the dyno attempt on the crux
[Hide Photo] the dyno attempt on the crux
Jesse Schultz savors a rest prior to the crux.
[Hide Photo] Jesse Schultz savors a rest prior to the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] EDIT: FAist is fine with the additions.

Bummer. The first ~30 feet of 5.8/9ish crack used to require a couple pieces of gear, now it's bolts all the way down. Jan 16, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Ryan,

I added the 4 bolts. I spoke with Mike H., and he told me that they never climbed the bottom section at all. Thus, he was fine with it.

Also, IMO, bolting the bottom of this climb is totally in line with current trends both on Lemmon and elsewhere. Why bolt a beautiful face and not the 35 ft. leading into it? Maybe now this thing will get traffic.

For what it's worth, I also added a rap anchor so you can low angle rappel out of the gully, down towards Nang, because it is very loose and a pain to climb down.

We gathered a full bag of trash out of that same gully a few weeks back.

Luke Jan 18, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Luke,

My only concern was added bolts without permission/discussion. I had asked around and learned that you and Mike had talked about the additions as well. I was more interested in avoiding another Chihuahua Power-gate. I think Pucker Up is a great route, whether it be fully bolted or with a few pieces of pro. As for current development trends, I don't hold any strong positions. FAist can do what they want.

Thanks for all the work cleaning up The Gallery! Jan 18, 2014
Dominic Weinstock
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] Id say good call on the bolt adition.....got on the route today and was darn fun but wouldnt have been worth the trouble of bringing a rack to protect the "approach" climbing.....especially since it was rainin kitty litter.......thanks luke....i look forward to sending that beast. Jan 18, 2014
Dominic Weinstock
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] And thank you for the rap bolt......that likely saved me an ass slide out of there. Jan 18, 2014
Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Classic! Thanks for the new bolts Luke Feb 24, 2014