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Routes in The Moonstone

36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonscape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweetwater Moose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wind Walker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Scarpelli
Page Views: 595 total, 11/month
Shared By: matt j hartman on May 19, 2013 with updates
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Sticky situation Details

Description

"Bob Scarpelli testpiece"- Lander Rock.

That says it all.

Location

Right next to Lunar Lander, above the Moonstone. This is the most commanding route in the area. Next to Cranner Roof Crack in how impressive it looks from the ground. I don't know if this has been repeated! Same grade as Bush Doctor!

Protection

Hands to Big Cams

Photos

Gee Double I was never able to find the actual Sweet Water Moose or We Were Soldiers once although I think I was close to the possible location. I'm returning to look again in a week or two. But I am definitely going to look for the roof near "Spit." Bob mentioned the Roof of All Evil to me (next to Bob's Roof) but says it was the easiest of the four offwidths he established out there? Meanwhile...I did successfully find quite a few rattle-snakes. Sep 15, 2017
There is nothing of real interest north of Rubber Rose Buttress except for the Frank Dusl bolted blank boulder, 5.12+. Other bits of a conversation that resulted in the recording of Sweetwater Moose, were also unable to be confirmed on the ground. The off width roof above the route "Spit" at the Great Stone Face was among the unconfirmed. It could be a last great problem for the Sweetwater Rocks, off-width climber. I have “When we
Were Soldiers” marked NW of Reapers Ridge. Let’s record this and Sweetwater Moose, where are they? Sep 14, 2017
I have confirmed with Bob Scarpelli that this is NOT Sweetwater Moose.

I red-pointed this spectacular pitch a few days ago thinking it was Sweetwater Moose ha! My partner, Devin Fin and I cleaned the route and established an anchor. We could find no information or any indication that this route had an ascent prior to mine.

Sweetwater Moose was indeed established by Scarpelli, but it is in a different location -- apparently near the Rubber Rose formation?

This pitch is an arduous 120' long. The crux low roof has ground-fall potential so be wary. The 100' of ultra-flared offwidth above is deceptively challenging. It appears low angle. It's not low angle. This is an offwidth test-piece in one of the most spectacular locations you can imagine -- well worth the 1500' slab approach, rattlesnakes and 4WD roads. Sep 11, 2017