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Routes in 09. White Wall

Three Paths to Glory (Wayne's Woute) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birth Canal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bozooka TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
C-section TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chunks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Embraceable You TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groove Machine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Superchunks T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Arete 5.10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Trash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Some Visiting Brit...
Page Views: 271 total · 5/month
Shared By: Philip Schuchardt on May 19, 2013
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Private Property - Access Sensitive Details
Private property. use common sense. Details

Description

Stay left of the Unnamed Arete by climbing the easy slab to the crux at the small roof. After the crux follow easy terrain to the top.

Location

Just left of the Unnamed Arete 5.10.

Protection

No bolts, No anchors. Top of the arete's crack accepts C4 2# for a top rope.

Photos

P. Sully  
 
Embraceable You was led by British Mike in the mid 90s, and is not the line shown in the photo. That route starts on the Right side of the arete, climbs some cracks, then steps to the left side of the arete mid way. It was led "Hed Point" style and is likely R rated without inspection.

He also referred to the route as "Toe'd in Hole"

the line in the photo was top roped long ago and likely was also led by British Mike. It likely shares a few moves at the top. Dec 3, 2015
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
probably unprotected, hence the R rating. Mar 18, 2014
Cool! I think your right. Perhaps we should rename the route, and remove myself as FA. I'm under the ideology of upload routes, and rename them later philosophy. :D

It's interesting that it was lead since it has very limited, if any, protection opportunities. I'm pretty sure that the crux of the route would be completely unprotected on lead and would probably result in a ground fall... Paul, did you protect it round the corner from the Unnamed 5.10 arete? Jul 17, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
It appears from Paul's comment on the Unnamed 5.10 arete photo that this has been lead (R Rated) and is called "Embraceable You" 5.10 was suggested as well.

Paul can you confirm? Jun 14, 2013

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