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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 166 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The second free route to be put up on Earwax Wall.

Follows a crack up the face, then goes over roof at right-facing corner, and then follows the crack up and right (crux). Lots of face holds going up to the roof, the crack often just serving as a place for pro. A slight reach at the roof to a sinker hand jam, and then the crack thins out. The hardest part is above the roof.

If the part below the roof is wet, you can climb into the route from the Black Flag route just to the right, joining Domestic at the roof.

Location

Left side of Earwax Wall. Starts on top of left edge of big block resting against the wall.

Protection

Gear to 2". Had three fixed pieces. The pins above the roof may be gone, but small cams should work.

Photos

This is route has been scrubbed by Jon Nelson. March 8th, 2014. Mar 9, 2014