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Routes in The Cascades Wall
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Ancient Relics T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Coleman Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diva T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Earn Money Sleeping T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Medusa Cascade S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Running Code T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Solar Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Who Haas Those Holds? T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 335 ft (102 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Montgomery, Eric Schmeer, Mike Morin, 07/12 |
| Page Views: | 2,440 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | AOSR on May 19, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a fun romp up to the top of the Meadow Dome. Pretty casual, it was one of the first new routes to go in at Staunton!
P1: 5.8+. Begin in the leftmost black streak on the Cascades Wall (just before a chimney formed by a tower). Follow this streak up until it is easy to step left into another groove. Build an anchor on the ledge or belay at two bolts on the left side of the ledge (bad pendulum potential for the second), 55'.
P2: 5.8+. Climb directly above the bolted belay anchor on the ridge past a couple small overlaps. Continue up on easier ground and belay at a tree on a ledge to the left of the ridge, 155',
P3: 5.5. The ridge pitch! This has classic position and great stone. From the tree, climb down and right to gain a faint black streak. Follow the streak until you feel like stepping right to the ridge. Take this until you feel comfortable setting up a belay and scrambling to the top, 125'.
P1: 5.8+. Begin in the leftmost black streak on the Cascades Wall (just before a chimney formed by a tower). Follow this streak up until it is easy to step left into another groove. Build an anchor on the ledge or belay at two bolts on the left side of the ledge (bad pendulum potential for the second), 55'.
P2: 5.8+. Climb directly above the bolted belay anchor on the ridge past a couple small overlaps. Continue up on easier ground and belay at a tree on a ledge to the left of the ridge, 155',
P3: 5.5. The ridge pitch! This has classic position and great stone. From the tree, climb down and right to gain a faint black streak. Follow the streak until you feel like stepping right to the ridge. Take this until you feel comfortable setting up a belay and scrambling to the top, 125'.
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