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Straight Jacket
5.12a,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 25
votes
FA: Todd Graham
California
> Sonora Pass Hig…
> Jailhouse Rock
Access Issue: LOCK THE GATE. Private property with access easement held by Access Fund allowing climbing.
Details
LOCK THE GATE! Jailhouse has been and remains privately owned. The owner has graciously allowed an access easement and conservation easement to let climbers get to and climb at the cliff. Current access is now via the new double gate and gravel road. In the future, a new route may be necessary due to future subdivisions.
For the current gate code and rules, visit
accessfund.org/capabilities… Some critical conditions of the easement we need to comply with include:
- No dogs on the property
- Close all gates (typically there are over 200 head of horses on the property), particularly the gate to O'Byrnes Ferry Road
- No loud music
- No fires
- No camping at the cliff, trailhead, or anywhere in the vicinity
- Access allowed only from sun-up to one hour after sundown
- No littering
In addition, seasonal raptor closures on a portion of cliff line may be posted on the property and online if there is active raptor nesting.
Our ability to climb here is contingent on our compliance with the conditions of the easement.
Description
Decent route, and one of the easier ones at the Jailhouse.
Clip the first bolt of the right warm-up, and head up and right on good crimps and edges. Great rests at the fourth and fifth bolt set you up for the awkward/powerful crux sequence getting up to, and passed, the obvious undercling rail. Mantle up and right past the sixth bolt, and follow the crack system past one more bolt to the anchors.
Location
Easy to find: the furthest right route at the crag. Shares the first bolt start with the right warmup
Protection
[Hide Photo] Me climbing. Pic by Zach Tan (https://www.instagram.com/zach_a_tttack/)
[Hide Photo] Me climbing. Pic by Zach Tan (https://www.instagram.com/zach_a_tttack/)
Tennessee
Reno, NV
Denver, CO