Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Colorado
> CO Ice & Mixed
> RMNP - Mixed/Ice
> Bear Lake Trail…
> Emerald Lake /…
> Hallett Peak -…
> E Buttress
Left of Cleft
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British M4 Steep Snow
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in East Buttress
|
|
Astro Turf T M4-5 |
|
|
Butterfingers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 |
|
|
Central Couloir Right T M2 |
|
|
Coconut Bliss M4-5 |
|
|
Dairy Lite M4 |
|
|
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
|
|
Left of Cleft 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow |
|
|
No. 1 Gully M4 |
|
|
No. 2 Gully M3-4 |
|
|
Steeplechase T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M4 Easy Snow |
|
|
Tastee Freeze M4 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,022 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Hansen on May 17, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Left Cleft is a scrappy mixed line on Hallett Peak's eastern flank. It is, as stated in the name, to the left of The Cleft. I believe this route would be superior (than the conditions in which we found it) in late spring (i.e. March or April). The crux pitch is pretty engaging and sustained throughout its duration. This route can be climbed quite quickly. Brent and I did it in under three hours.
Approach as for Hallett Couloir or The Cleft. Before reaching The Cleft (a narrow couloir roughly 200' to the left of Hallett Couloir), head up a broader couloir for 400' aiming for a steep, rock groove.
P1: climb the broad snow filled couloir for roughly 400'. We climbed this unroped, moderate snow. Belay at the base of the steep rock groove.
P2: fire up the groove. In late Spring, this would likely be filled with a small amount of ice. We found it in pretty sloppy, dirty conditions. The climbing is not extremely strenuous, but there is quite a bit of loose rock, though the pro is adequate. Belay at the top of the gendarme to the left of the obvious snow couloir to the right, 190', M4 (R?).
P3: this pitch is shared with The Cleft though belaying at the gendarme will significantly reduce the length of the pitch. Step right into the couloir, and move up towards the obvious roof. Pull through the roof on turf sticks and stemming. Once over the roof, continue climbing to the right of a rock buttress, 160', M2.
P4: continue up on steep snow to the summit, 120'.
Descent: Hallett Couloir.
Approach as for Hallett Couloir or The Cleft. Before reaching The Cleft (a narrow couloir roughly 200' to the left of Hallett Couloir), head up a broader couloir for 400' aiming for a steep, rock groove.
P1: climb the broad snow filled couloir for roughly 400'. We climbed this unroped, moderate snow. Belay at the base of the steep rock groove.
P2: fire up the groove. In late Spring, this would likely be filled with a small amount of ice. We found it in pretty sloppy, dirty conditions. The climbing is not extremely strenuous, but there is quite a bit of loose rock, though the pro is adequate. Belay at the top of the gendarme to the left of the obvious snow couloir to the right, 190', M4 (R?).
P3: this pitch is shared with The Cleft though belaying at the gendarme will significantly reduce the length of the pitch. Step right into the couloir, and move up towards the obvious roof. Pull through the roof on turf sticks and stemming. Once over the roof, continue climbing to the right of a rock buttress, 160', M2.
P4: continue up on steep snow to the summit, 120'.
Descent: Hallett Couloir.
2 Comments