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Routes in L'Aiguille

Belzébuth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bisbille T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face Nord T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Ouest T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Ouest directe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
L'aiguille T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lavallée directe (var) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Bidoule T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Midnight Express T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ochra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Dupont T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Normand Cadieux, Edouard Pierre Gagnon, summer 1977
Page Views: 179 total, 3/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on May 16, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

Start on the midway ledge, going up the cave on the outer left corner of the Needle.
Exit the cave by the right side and move up a flake.
Once you feet clear the roof, traverse left and to a beautiful fingercrack to the top.

Protection

Small to medium rack.
Belay/rap anchor on top, need a 60m+ rope to rap.

Photos

Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
I had a hard time exiting the cave, and it takes some trickery to protect the flake while either; 1) not exploding it (although it sounds solid), or 2), not freaking your second out when their next piece is 4 meters left and at their waist through an airy move.

For the cave, I was afraid of the fall potential since I protected as to avoid rope drag.

For the crack itself, I just found the short steep portion to be fairly sustained, so it was hard to make placements.

BETA WARNING: a large part of the steep crack section is larger inside than on the outside. It's flake like in the front of the crack, but then opens up significantly in the back. The problem is that It makes placing cams tricky, and seeing as the route is sustained in that section, I found it hard to place nuts.

I will do it again, and one special adjustment that I'll make, is presling some nuts.

P.S. My 2 star rating is due to the fact that this route freaked me out. And of course, if you're good, you could just not protect the flake. Jul 5, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
that's good to know!! May 22, 2014
tsherry
Portland, OR
 
tsherry   Portland, OR
 
Fun route with fun moves. Crack might be a little harder than 5.9. Apr 24, 2014