Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Brian Nugent
Page Views: 1,532 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian Nugent on May 16, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Start on the obvious diagonal rail at chest height. Make a big move up and right to a small gaston crimp. From here hard heel hooking and hidden holds will take you to the slopey lip. A jug up and right of the lip makes the top out easy.

The name is because Ethan Chase bit open a chalk ball to put on a stick so we could clean the top.


On the Mad Hatter boulder. If approaching the boulders from the Devil's Den trail, get to the boulder then walk left along the boulder using a fallen tree to avoid the swamp. The face that this problem is on is opposite of a another large, sized boulder. If you stand on top of the opposing boulder you can see the lip and the jug. You should also be able to find the partially chalked rail without much trouble.


A couple crash pads and spotters. The landing is flat but it's a bit tall.
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
This is a really good climb and is worth seeking out. Excellent movement on good quality rock (for the most part). The line is aesthetic and the moves have nice flow to them. Aug 9, 2014
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
Awesome line!!! I can't wait to finish it! Oct 20, 2014
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
An awesome climb. Big opening move to technical crimping with great movement. A must climb. Oct 13, 2015
Graham O.
Graham O.  
Is there such thing as an extension traverse that starts on the sloping rail and traverses in from the right? It always has chalk on it. It would kind of detract from the quality but would be a good v6-7 nonetheless. I assume it has been done but I'm not really sure.

And yes, this is an epic problem with awesome, varied movement. Jul 9, 2016