Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brad Johnson and John Robinson
Page Views: 1,135 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Robinson on May 15, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Kyle Bishop, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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27 Opinions

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Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property Details

Description

Just right of Ambushed in the Night. See Mike Carville's 1991 guide book or purchase the new North Tahoe guide for information and location. Shade till noon then shaded by trees. This is a rules problem climb. If you use the Arete you are cheating yourself

Protection

Bolts and top anchors

Photos

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Dustin Glasner
Berkeley, CA
  5.12a
Dustin Glasner   Berkeley, CA
  5.12a
I really enjoyed this route. I've heard people say that it's contrived because the arete is off, but the holds are all there on the face, and I thought it flowed very nicely. some really thoughtful movement in places, maybe because I'm quite short and had to get creative with the beta. still, I had a lot of fun on this climb and was happy to get the redpoint. as for the grade, I think it felt like 12a - but if someone called it 11d, I don't think I'd complain. Aug 1, 2014
Alex McKenzie
Nevada city, CA
5.12a
Alex McKenzie   Nevada city, CA
5.12a
Gave up on TR after falling several times about 5 moves up. And this is after I flashed (not onsighted, I had come there before) Step into the Light and ascended Duppy Conqueror on TR. This route is hard! Jan 11, 2018
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.11c
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.11c
Flashed this on lead using some holds next to/on the arete. I definitely think it would be harder not using the arete, 5.11d/5.12, but it's bullshit to say it's off given you can clip all the bolts from the arete. Mid 5.11 this way. Jul 28, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.12a
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.12a
Caliza: The name of the climb tells it all. Some climbs have rules problems. You do it the way you want however. Brad is in the Hospital after a serious motorcycle accident so I am defending him as he'll be out of commission for some time.. Also read Dustin's comment above and the description of the climb again. Also, don't rate the climb 11c if you didn't actually do the climb. Jul 28, 2018
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.11c
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.11c
John, from what I see, people are calling this 11d/12a if you don't touch some of the stuff to the right. It's ridiculous to say that a good hold two feet from a shitty hold is off. As far as the actually arete itself, I touched it once. If a route has rules as to what's on, what's off, that's an eliminate. E.g. "If you use this hold, it's 11b, if you don't use this, it's 11c, and if you don't use any of these holds its 12a or b, take away that foot, 12c" In other words contrived. Jul 29, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
  5.12a
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
  5.12a
Caliza: No question the route is contrived. If you don't like contrived routes I suggest you not climb it. Others, myself included, don't mind contrived routes. All routes in the gym are "contrived", i.e. you only use the red holds, but people love gym climbing. (Using the word "Bullshit" in your first post kinda set me off - a bit strong). Jul 29, 2018
Caliza Rodriguez
  5.11c
Caliza Rodriguez  
  5.11c
John, I did enjoy the route, it was fun, but can't stand when people say, "you're not supposed to use that hold." If the hold is within reach, who's to say it's off. Jul 29, 2018
We're talking about a few holds on one route right? I like this route. Cool texture, holds and moves. I haven't got the redpoint yet but have enjoyed trying it without using the arĂȘte. My friend didn't like it and won't go back-I did, and will! Pretty simple. Sep 7, 2018