[Hide Comment] Another nice route. In particular, the upper headwall has some very nice movement up a clean face. However, some care should be exercised clipping the second bolt on this route and the one to the right because if you muff the clip you are gonna come real close to hitting the deck. Not sure why this is the case because the second bolts could certainly have been placed a bit lower and clipped easily (in fact it appears that the original second bolt was actually removed and the new bolt is a foot and half higher...puzzling). Apr 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] I Really like this route. Technical, tricky and powerful with some old school spice. Aug 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] Pretty cruxey at the beginning; consider stick clipping that bolt. Couldn't find bolt #5. Scary run out. May 25, 2015

[Hide Comment] Jalbers and Eugenel. This climb was a Mike Carville climb from the late eighties. Originally the first bolt you see wasn't there and there were no bolts on the last third of the climb. When we were putting up "into the light" and "get out of irete" we decided to replace the old, rusty bolts on the rest of the wall. After talking with Mike a decision was made to add some bolts to Duppy without changing the character of the climb. We added the first bolt because the triangular block you are going too is cracked all the way around and a broken hold at that point would suck. We added the bolts up top because it was originally a combination climb which didn't fit well with the sport area concept. I've seen people take falls onto the first and second bolts. If the belayer is paying attention there isn't a problem. Is it a bit runout and spooky? Yes, but you can toprope it easily and many people do.

Brad and John Aug 6, 2015

[Hide Comment] Fun, technical climb. Some of the clipping stances are on thin edges, but nothing too spicy. Thanks to Mike for original bolting, and Brad for the re-bolt. Aug 25, 2015

[Hide Comment] Mad respect to Carville and crew for leading this on gear back in the 80s and 90s. It's thin till you're basically 5/6 up the route. May 23, 2016

[Hide Comment] Super techy crimp-fest....I mean that in a good way :) Sep 26, 2016

[Hide Comment] Me and my buddy Bryce both sent this route yesterday after working it a bit. I tried to lead it a few months ago and was terrified and had to go over to Into The Light. The lower crux to the third bold is very hard but doable. My friend and I both did the upper crux using the same beta (for taller folks), which makes it easier. Great route! Jun 10, 2018

[Hide Comment] Loved this climb, but couldn't figure out the short person beta between clips 4 and 5. Tried a sick thumbdercling to a mono before the jugs, but couldn't quite reach it.
Edit: Found a crimp pinch which unlocked the send for me. :D Jun 23, 2019

[Hide Comment] Great movement interspaced with good rests. All of the ledges had a good spot among the slopey or thin trick holds. Went left of the bolt for the reach and was able to make it static. Never felt unsafe with the bolt placements. Jun 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] Definitely had the old school spice to it, Crimp-fest- good feet- and balance-y moves will get you to the anchors. Crux moves are well protected Jul 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] Interesting moves between great rests, but I think it's a few grades harder if you can't reach key holds around the 5th bolt (just barely at my fingertips at 5'10") Jul 11, 2019

[Hide Comment] Ansel: Maybe as you grow a little older you will get taller Jul 11, 2019

[Hide Comment] So good! Apr 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] Did something break on this between the 4th and 5th bolt? Looked like there was some rock scar just before the good holds the 5th bolt. I had to lock off on a small hold and reach the decent holds above at the 5th bolt, short people would have to match small crimps where it looks like some rock broke Jun 7, 2020

[Hide Comment] A very all time beautiful Classic tricky slab. I felt like dancing on eggshells today. Don’t miss the third clip... Jan 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] This is a pretty darn good climb. Fantastic rock quality and some interesting features. Definitely used some very small crimps for the grade. It felt like a couple cruxes were pretty hard for the grade for me, but I'm also no granite slabmaster. Jun 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] New lower offs added today with ASCA supplied hooks. Mar 24, 2022

[Hide Comment] Definitely one of my favorite routes. I'm 5'8" and had a hard time getting the crux static so I did it dynamic and it's so fun! I'm able catch the jug spread out from tippy toe to fingertips. The crux has a very safe bolt placement and the rest of the climbing is just pure enjoyment. Jun 2, 2023