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Routes in South Face

Peanut Brittle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raspberry Bypass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strawberry Overpass T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Mark Nicholas and Brian Harrington, 1984
Page Views: 407 total, 7/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 14, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Starts at the leftmost bolt of the south face of Hogsback, and works up a short, technical slabby face section, culminating in the crux move(s), over the first twenty feet and two bolts. Mind the ground fall potential on a move or two.

From there all the guides are vague about the finish. I followed my leader's wandering line up 5.7 to 5.9 rock (depending on the variations chosen) following adequately protectable cracks and features. If you meander as we did, also mind the rope drag. This influenced us to break it into two pitches halfway up a 60 meter rope, although we had enough rope to top out (certainly the route is less than 200 feet tall total).

All routes on Hogsback south go to the same largest tree described as a landmark in the Falcon guide. From the tree, they scramble up lower angle class 4, perhaps easy 5., to the level top of the formation (which is also the top of the rarely climbed fifth pitch of Better with Bacon on the north side of the Hogsback/Hogwild).

None of the Hogsback south stuff gets much action, so expect much more lichen, moss and loose rock than on the training lines and classics.

Location

On the south face of the Hogsback. Try to follow use trails up from the Pony Express Trail to the steepest section. From the base of the face, look for Mike Carville's "windswept tree" just above halfway up the route. As of 2013, it starts at the leftmost bolt of this section.

(Thanks Ed and Petch for better descent beta!) From the top of the formation, scramble down class 2 to 3 slabs to your right (generally southeast) until you reach the base of the steep section, then turn back west to the base of the wall.

Petch gave me this beta and we did it yesterday - not too hair ball, and very direct:

From the top, scramble down 4th class gully to the west (this leads to top of Hogwild area), then take good trail back to Pony Express trail.

Protection

Two bolts, followed by standard Leap trad pro, including longer slings to manage rope drag and lasso naturals.

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