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Routes in The Black Sea

A Turtle to Far S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Sea T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead Mans Reach T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Echolocation S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gods Bones S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Incision, The T A2
Jesters of Chaos T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wilman's Walkabout T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A3
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Ramier
Page Views: 2,326 total, 42/month
Shared By: Thomas Ramier on May 12, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

P1
It is best to pre-clip the first bolt then start climbing from the right at an under cling. Follow bolts, a few small cams and a fixed 1/2" rod behind a flake. Climb up and right for more bolts, multiple small cruxes and a short layback up an arete past a few good cams to a few more bolts and a final difficult move just before the anchors.

P2
Goes straight up the corner then steps left passing a bolt to gain another corner/Arete. Climb Arete and face past some huge knobs then head left past two more bolts through a steep bulge then up a corner to the belay. A short dirty third pitch can be lead to gain the summit. There is a bolted rappel about 5m to the right of the top out or Rap back down the route from here.

Location

Climb up from just inside the "cave" onto the top of the huge detached block above Ted, Ted Nugent. There is a bolted belay.

The route can be rappelled with one 70m from the first or second belay. Be very careful returning to the Perverse Traverse as the wall is undercut and you must maintain a swing to get back to the ledge. Tie knots!

Protection

14-16 draws and runners
Cams from .25"-1.5" (#2 or #3 Camolot for Pitch 2)
Chain anchors at top of both pitches
Jon Todorovich
  5.11d
Jon Todorovich  
  5.11d
Both pitches are very, very good! This route (and the whole area) are not to be missed. You get to clip a half inch rod drilled through a huge flake for pro! Check it out - you'll see what I mean.
Pitch 1 has a bit of a rap for scary in places. It's really not too bad. For the gear section up high, I placed a 0.5 c4 deep in the flair and a black mastercam in the obvious spot. Both pieces were bomber. I climbed the section directly above that gear straight in with some weird corner levitation instead of a layback, which kept my rope from rubbing on the sharp edge. Either way, it should be safe.
For pitch 2, climb straight up from the anchors through the persistent bush. Obvious bolts from there. Jun 17, 2016
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11d
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11d
First pitch is one of the best I've done this year. Love the position of the belay on the block, and I was fully engaged as soon as I pulled off of it. Varied, technical, and powerful with a little sting in the tail right when you think you're done. Awesome!!! Oct 20, 2015
Drewsky
  5.11+
Drewsky  
  5.11+
First pitch is great. Don't forget the .75 and/or #1 Camalot unless you're bolder than I. I sat in a kneebar at the arete while my belayer tied me off and located the appropriate cam. Luckily for me, Tom was there to tag it up to me on a fixed line. It's pretty steep at that point but the arete section has a sharp edge that was giving me visions of disaster. Still exciting even with all the gear! Jun 6, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Nice name -- I'll update my photo captions. May 12, 2013
Sorry Jon! I keep changing the name... first time using this thing. May 12, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Fantastic route. The first pitch was sustained, yet quite varied. I can't wait to try the second pitch. May 12, 2013