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Routes in The Carnal Caves

Dont Call it a Comeback S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enticer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Even Cowpunks Hit The Booze S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Patriot Games S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Secret Garden S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
She's A Squirter T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Straight To The Throat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Old Bolts S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turn It On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 152 total, 3/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 12, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Straight To The Throat is the wild and steep crack line to the left of She's A Squirter, and essentially shares the start with that route. Though this route features excellent sections of face climbing, the harder climbing is going to test your crack skills. This line is a solid and unique classic, which will most likely leave you gasping for air.

Climb awesome holds past three bolts to access the crack which starts off with a wide pod. If you have a good wing span, there are a few choice hand holds, and faint feet which allow for a very long move to the distant rail. If you are of a shorter persuasion you will most likely have to do an offwidth move or two to pass this pod section. A deceptive, bulging, and splitter section of 5.12- off fingers (#.4, .5) awaits you and is most certainly the crux of the route. The gear here is very good. After the jam test there is a good shake, which is nice because there are another set of cruxy moves getting to, and moving over the small roof at the 2/3 mark 5.11-. PLEASE be careful under the roof because while we pull on the largest block- there are a number of lesser chock stones behind it of unknown integrity. After the roof, a few big hero moves and big holds take you to the anchors.






Location

Left hand overhanging crack line.

Protection

I placed two #.4s and a #.5 during the crux section, and a #.75 at the higher roof, though #.5 or #1 would also work. Five bolts. Clipping first bolt of She's A Squirter optional.

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