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Routes in Sun King Tower, East Face

A Night With Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, James Q Martin
Page Views: 53 total, 1/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 12, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A Night With Ra is a striking natural line which cleaves the East Face of the Sun King Tower in two. While the tower itself sees a lot of sun throughout the day, the actual crack on this route stays in an almost perpetual state of shade, aside from the wee hours of the dawn. The surreal summit and expansive views are worth the thumping heart...

Pitch 1, 110', 5.10
Climb past ledges to a bomber #2 Camalot at 15', and mantle sloping ramp. Stem or bridge past three bolts being careful around a couple chossy areas here and there... Continue up past a steep and solid crack crux, and then enjoy thoughtful 5.9 crack climbing with sculpted face holds to an exposed perch and a lovely bolted belay.

Pitch 2, 45', 5.6
Climb the beautifully sculpted jugs on airy face left of the belay. There is a good #.5 at the diagonal break, then continue scampering your way around a neat ramp and to the chasmy summit. For now, we used the Sun King Direct anchor on the north side for belay anchors, and the rappel down. Rappel 90' to the base of the route SKD then a short scramble around the front of the tower brings you back to your packs.

A beautiful line, a little adventury, and stunning views. One could think they were in City of Rocks, ID if they were to let their mind drift a bit...

Protection

While you can do this line with a single set you would have to nail the placements. doubling up from #.5 through #2 camalots isn't going to hurt you. Bring a #3 and a #3.5 for the very top. A select set of medium/large wires are nice too. Three bolts.

Location

The first pitch is long, and you will probably recognize it if you are looking for it.

Photos

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