Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Steamboat Pass

Through the Never T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett 4-27-07
Page Views: 833 total · 14/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on May 11, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route provides a fun diversion from the climbing at Ibex. The rock is mostly very good and the route protects well.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack system using a variety of techniques up to a thin section, clip a bolt and a piton and scamper to a belay alcove with 1 bolt. A second bolt is above the belay a short distance. Otherwise the 1 bolt can be backed up with small cams. 5.9 25m.

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and climb up the dihedral as it continues to the top of the Steamboat. As the difficulty eases the rock becomes loose. Build a belay in boulders. 5.8 35M.

Descent: Walk off to the north and down through a break in the cliffband.

Location

Located on the southwest face of the Steamboat very near the southern prow. It receives morning shade and then all day sun. Look for a small cave with some sort of animals nest in it at the base of a crack system. Climb the crack system for two pitches.

Protection

Single rack to #3 Camalot, Doubles .4" to .75" is nice.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Climbed this route today after doing a multi-pitch in Ibex -- a couple thoughts: I was able to get to the formation in my tiny Honda 2-door, 2-wheel drive just fine. Secondly, this route is awesome! The West Desert guidebook gives it 1 star, but I thought this was a solid 3.5 star route. I loved it. I am very easily stoked, however, and have a high tolerance for choss.

Compared to Notch Peak limestone, this is the best rock ever. It's really only the last bit of the 2nd pitch that requires you to really step carefully, and by that point it's eased off in difficulty. The route is steep, has awesome stemming, great gear, and is on a beautiful formation in the dead of nowhere. It was an awesome time.

Lastly, there are no obvious belays. Supposedly there is a 2 bolt anchor, I did not find this and led half of pitch 2 on accident, belaying off a lone bolt backed up with a micro nut. There are no anchors on top, and no good places to build one as the rock is kitty litter on the summit. My partner, who is bigger than me, gave me a sitting belay, which was fine for me but maybe take that into consideration.

All in all a superb route on an awesome formation in a beautiful setting. Walkoff took us about 20-25 min. Nov 27, 2014
I have to agree with Sam's comment on the quality limestone. Repeated this Classic (IMHO) trad route Easter Sunday with good friend Kris Pietryga. The first pitch (if you choose to belay there) does have two vertically stacked bolts for the belay. The original sling connecting the two was probably removed due to wear. the anchor was set this way so that the two could be tied together as well as offer a higher up clip above the belay.

The other bolts and museum worthy pitons (all in very good condition) are placed where needed or to redirect the rope away from potential complications.

With a well rounded rack, you can protect the climb well and it provides about as good of limestone crack climbing you can find anywhere. And though placing gear in limestone often feels sketchy, this rock is very confidence inspiring.

Their is no bolted summit pitch belay, but if you have a #3 Camelot and a #2 or #1 left over, their is a wonderful solid rock you can set one up on. The walk off is casual and to the East about 50m after the summit cairn. The final pitch is NOT as loose as I remember with Franziska.

Tape up or bleed!!:):) Apr 17, 2017

More About Through the Never

Printer-Friendly