Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett 4-27-07
Page Views: 1,916 total · 14/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on May 11, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route provides a fun diversion from the climbing at Ibex. The rock is mostly very good and the route protects well.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack system using a variety of techniques up to a thin section, clip a bolt and a piton and scamper to a belay alcove with 1 bolt. A second bolt is above the belay a short distance. Otherwise the 1 bolt can be backed up with small cams. 5.9 25m.

Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and climb up the dihedral until it seems blockier and loose. You can now Belay on a fairly nice ledge with a new bolt and ring pin. 5.8, 20m.

Pitch #3: A few glue in bolts have been added here to enable avoiding the rubble in the dihedral and climb more solid rock to the left. This allows a much more exciting and better protected finish on solid rock. After the last bolt, scramble the short distance to the top and find a two bolt belay on a flat rock. 5.7/8, 20m.

Descent: Walk off to the north and down through a break in the cliffband.

Location Suggest change

Located on the southwest face of the Steamboat very near the southern prow. It receives morning shade and then all day sun. Look for a small cave with some sort of animals nest in it at the base of a crack system. Climb the crack system for two to three pitches.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to #3 Camalot, Doubles .4" to .75" is nice.

Photos

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