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Routes in Griddle Block

Dakota River Forge, The V7- 7A+
Get Got V3 6A
Zoster Coaster V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Jared LaVacque, early 2002
Page Views: 501 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on May 11, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start sitting down with both hands on crimps just above the lip. The left hand crimp is on the far side of the lip/roof. The starting right crimp is approximately 18 inches to the right of that, just above the lip. Make big moves alternating left and right, using the side-pulls, keeping compressed. Keep this alternating movement, while establishing your feet above the lip, and when you can, using a left hand side-pull with thumb catch and right hand high up on the right corner, set your feet, backstep on the starting crimp and throw up and over the center for a flat shelf.... or just continue tick tacking up. See the photos for body position beta.

Location

This is on the right side of the south face of the Griddle Block.

Protection

Crash pad(s).
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
As a general note, the grade of this varies depending on the start and sequence used. It is very easy to stray left and get off route. The FA relied heavily on the right blunt corner and avoided the good holds to the left of the start (within reason). That being said, the most direct and original line is closer to V7 but can vary between V5-V7, depending on adherence to the original, depicted in the beta photos. Jan 12, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
Different Version:

Instead of starting on both crimps, start matched only on the left hand crimp. Move up to the first left hand side-pull and then bump to the second left hand side-pull(while your right hand is still on the crimp), move your feet up to patina scabs and lunge to the highest right hand side-pull, set your feet and back step the starting crimp and then lunge to the lip. This version eliminates the compression, avoids the lowest right hand side-pull and softens the grade to V5+/V6-, still remaining quality movement with a nice foot-cutting lunge. Jan 4, 2014