Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Locker, Tim Klein, & Paul Haraf
Page Views: 1,418 total · 21/month
Shared By: Locker on May 9, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This has decent moves.

Location

It is left of "Jim's Myrtle Spurge."

Protection

No anchors (eds. old buttonheads without hangers, which can be backed up), it is pretty difficult to set up and direct your rope where it should be. This is not the easiest to TR!

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
There are no anchors on this, some loose stuff here and there, becomes uneventful about two thirds up. May 9, 2013
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
Well, there are anchors, they're just kinda special anchors. Bring your keyhole hangers for some buttonheads. Jun 2, 2014
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
^^^

That's true. There are three "Buttonheads" on top back a little ways that we used "Keyhole" (Moses) hangers on. If you don't have "Keyhole" hangers or "Wires", you could rig it with nuts.

Isn't the most secure rig to TR from. LOL! But it works. Jun 3, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
I backed up the three buttonheads with a #3 Camalot and a small nut. It is not the best route, but if you do it, you can say you did the furthest route north at the main cliff. I climbed a bit left of the 1st posted picture showing the line. This line looks like it could be led with small gear but would deserve a "S" rating. Jan 13, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Locker...the part about the three buttonheads/keyhole hangers is an important detail NOT to be left out of a write up. A huge oversight! You've done better work. We're gonna die! Jun 25, 2017
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Not much for gear for a lead - I ended up just soloing it. I really wonder what the FA party was thinking with the anchor. I mean it makes sense to bolt one, but brand new buttonheads with no hangers? Really, guys? Nov 10, 2018