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Routes in Orc Tower

116 orc tower rd. T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
opportunity of a lifetime, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: J. Wyland, N. Rosser
Page Views: 986 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 8, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Goes more behind Orc Tower than on it.
Start from the ledge of "cream of the country", also the start of the second pitch of "116 orc tower road". Crawl through the hole accessing the seldom visited Orc Tower chamber room. Make your way to the back pedestal and get ready for some action.

P1: 10b Wild stemming protected by a thin crack on the main wall leads to a massive roof. Traverse left (west) and then up through a flaring fist crack to the notch between Orc Tower and the wall. A two bolt belay is on the Orc Tower side.

P2. 9 Traverse west out of the gap and onto the wall, joining the upper hand cracks of what is probably Orc Wall (rusty pins were spotted at the alcove down and to the left of the obvious triple cracks at the top of the wall). Follow the crack.

A fine route with a high dose of adventure. Cool even on the hottest of days.

Location

See description above and the overview image.

Protection

A wide range of sizes.
The stemming is rad and keeps the climbing relatively moderate. Moving through the roof felt hard!

It looks like there is a hand crack line to the right of this (in the chamber room but on the main wall). Aug 28, 2013
Mike Schmitt  
 
This is a fun, adventurous, and quite unique route. After a belly crawl to reach the "Chamber Room", wild stemming leads to some even wilder overhanging moves to surmount a roof. Bring gear from #0 C3 to #4 C4. We didn't climb the short second pitch but it looks worthwhile as well.

Due to all the loose rock at the base of Orc Tower, avoid climbing this one on weekends to minimize the risk of hitting climbers in the Country with falling rocks. Aug 28, 2013